My 50th birthday was approaching fast, too fast for my liking, and I wanted something special to celebrate the event. The planning started some 12 months before the event and looking in the cellar there were a number of old bottles that looked like they needed some TLC. I booked my place 5 months in advance at the Penfolds Recorking Clinic and waited. The months came and went and finally the day had arrived. I carefully wrapped each bottle and lovingly placed them in the car on a soft blanket to reduce vibration. Pulling out of the drive looked left, right, left, right, left and I thought “this is ridiculous”. Driving at 60 seemed perilous and 50 was met with many beeping horns and cross looks from other road users, but it didn’t bother me as my babies needed to be transported with care to this most auspicious occasion.
On arrival at Magill Estate, I booked them in. I had never been into the cellars at Magill estate and eagerly accepted the invitation. Wandering around the cellars marvelling at the paintings of Max Schubert I could feel his eyes following me as I looked, but did not touch, the history in glass lined up in the neatly numbered and labelled racks. Grange, 707, 389 all lined up waiting for some lucky diner at the restaurant to order and relish as they dine out and admire the magnificent views over Adelaide.
Some fellow hopefuls joined me and chatting to one he regaled me with stories of carting grapes in a horse and cart for Penfolds to this site before continuing to a career in Aussie Rules football and then as a leading coach. A son had come along with his father and his collection of 60’s Grange hoping he would go home with a few sound bottles to drink.
Then the call came.
I took my bottles to my allocated table where I gently unwrapped my treasures and lined them up. The winemaker introduced himself and noted that it was his first time at this clinic. I wondered how this youngster would appreciate wines much older than himself, and possibly made when his parents were still at primary school. He grouped them by variety or stylistically and proceeded to remove the crusted foil capsules. All vestiges of the old capsules had to be cleaned up so nothing would fall into the bottle when the corks were removed. Two long corkscrews were gently wound through the cork at opposing angles allowing the ancient corks to be removed in one piece. Immediately the cork was removed the bottle was gassed with nitrogen to prevent any immediate oxidisation. A piece of cork that had fallen back into one wine was expertly removed with a pipette.
A small taste was poured into a glass and placed in front of each bottle. My host winemaker then assessed each wine and set aside any obviously faulty bottle. I was the surprised and pleased that Peter Gago and Andrew Caillard were called over to taste my treasures. John Bird was called over to give his historical perspective on one of the wines and a bit of vinous history was learnt by myself. (Did you know that the 1963 bin 64 Kalimna Cabernet, winner of the 1964 JWT, was from Block 42 and matured in approx 95% new oak?)
Another bottle was downgraded. I was heartbroken.
Then I got my chance to try the wines. One of the faulty ones had a sour nose, bitter palate and was out of condition. I could convince myself it would be a nice BBQ wine to be had late in the evening. Another one I thought was alright but I had to accede to the experts. The healthy wines were ethereal in complexity, had a character and length that I am not used to in younger wines, and were a revelation to taste.
The remaining bottles were passed in good health and thus were topped up, recorked, recapsuled and had a special Penfolds Clinic Label attached to the back certifying their authenticity.
On the way out the Aussie Rule Football Legend’s wines were in good health and the father and son only had one failure out of 18 bottles. All were happy with the Recorking Clinic experience. We all had a chance to try our treasured bottles and left with wines we would be happy to share with confidence.
As to my 50th birthday, well that’s another story.
Phill, S.A.
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