News
After a lukewarm start to summer, the recent heat has hit me like a brick wall. When it becomes too oppressive, there is nothing like a chilled soup to take the edge off and introduce some cool reason back into the equation. Let’s face it, there’s only so much ice cream and sorbet one can eat in a week. Sometimes, a refreshingly cold soup is just what’s needed.
Making cold soup is exactly what I did three years on Black Saturday whilst staying with friends in the country. Driven mental by the relentless heat, I decided the only solution was gazpacho for lunch. Out came the blender, in went the vegetables. There was something about the methodical preparation of ingredients that somehow normalised the growing chaos of the day. Everything would be fine if I just kept chopping. As the situation became increasingly perilous with each passing hour, bags were packed for a potential evacuation (which very fortunately turned out to be unnecessary). I poured the gazpacho into a bucket and loaded it into the car with everything else, determined that even if all hell broke loose there would be cold soup. Clearly it was the logic of a madwoman, but it brought me comfort. Soup is like that, even when it’s cold.
Chilled soups are popular the world over in forms that range from creamy or vegetal to fruity or sweet. Borscht is enjoyed cold as well as warm in Lithuania, Belarus, Russia and Poland, whilst the Danes make a sweet cold soup with buttermilk, vanilla and lemon. Cucumbers and yoghurt are the basis of tarator, a chilled soup found around the Balkans. In Mexico, avocadoes are used in sopa fria de aguacate which resembles a guacamole in liquid form.
Chilled soups appear all too infrequently in Australian restaurants, which is surprising considering how perfectly refreshing they are in our climate. Zingy gazpacho of Andalusian origins occasionally turns up on menus though, even if I stretch my mind back, I can’t remember the last time I saw one. M.K Fisher celebrates its “freakish appeal”; I love that it tastes like a summer vegetable garden in liquid form. It’s wonderfully fresh and lends itself to any number of variations. The version below is green, rather than red, based on a recipe by Yotam Ottolenghi which I have tweaked. That’s the beauty and flexibility of such a rustic dish.
Vichyssoise, a restaurant classic of contested origins, seems to be even less common in Australia. An early twentieth century invention, Julia Child claims it as American though it is generally attributed to French chef Louis Diat who worked at the Ritz in New York and wanted to create a chilled soup that was reminiscent of the leftovers of his mother’s creamy leek and potato soup to which he would add cold milk as a child. The Vichyssoise below is based on a lighter recipe I learned at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris, containing less heavy cream than Diat’s original Vichyssoise. It’s fine dining that easy to do at home.
Chilled soups can also be fruity and make a delightfully light and palate-cleansing dessert. The strawberry and watermelon soup below is inspired by a sweet salad by Andrew McConnell which appears on the menu at Cumulus. I’ve made my own version of this dish several times this summer but also modified it into soup form. The addition of rosewater gives it a perfumed and candy-like quality without any cloying sweetness.
Green gazpacho
To keep this soup light (and gluten-free for the intolerant), I’ve left out the traditional inclusion of stale bread. For creaminess, I’ve added almonds. It could also be made vegan without detracting from the flavour by adding another 50 grams of almonds and removing the yoghurt. The Japanese turnips give it a peppery zing. I’m not a huge fan of green capsicum so I’ve included only one for colour and added long yellow peppers for sweetness instead. It can be supplemented with other fresh herbs such as mint, chives and chervil. The flavour of this soup is more beautifully developed after spending a night in the refrigerator.
3-4 small cucumbers, seeds removed
5-6 young Japanese turnips, diced
2 sweet yellow peppers (the long ones)
2-3 yellow or green tomatoes such as Tigerella or Green Zebra, deseeded and chopped (optional)
4 gloves of garlic
1 green capsicum
1 green chili, seeds removed (unless you want more kick)
3 stalks of baby celery, including leaves
60 grams of walnuts, toasted
60 grams of raw almonds
half a bunch of parsley, chopped
big handful of basil leaves, chopped
small handful of dill, chopped
100 grams of baby spinach leaves
2 tablespoons of Greek yoghurt
4 tablespoons of sherry vinegar
200 mls of olive oil
around 400 mls of water (plus a handful ice cubes)
Salt and pepper to taste
Serves 6.
Chop and mix together the cucumbers, turnips, peppers, capsicum, chili, garlic, celery and tomatoes (optional). Add a good pinch of salt early on to help extract the liquid from the veggies while you’re chopping. When everything is chopped, whizz up in a blender with half the water.
Lightly toast the walnuts. Break them up to remove some of the skins (no need to be pedantic about this). Boil the almonds for 6-7 minutes. Peel and chop when they are cool. Add walnuts, almonds, herbs, vinegar, yoghurt and spinach leaves to blender. Slowly pour in the olive oil as you blitz the ingredients. Add the remaining water until it’s thick and relatively smooth. Taste and season accordingly. Refrigerate until cold. Blitz in the ice cubes before serving. The ice will dilute the soup so adjust the seasoning as required. Garnish with fresh herbs and serve with toasted croutons or crusty bread.
Crème Vichyssoise
4 leeks, white part only
2 medium onion, thinly sliced
300 g baking potatoes, diced
60 grams butter
1.5 litre water or chicken stock (stock will give more flavour, but if you have vegetarian guests, use water)
225 ml double cream or crème fraîche
1 tablespoon fresh chives, chopped
Salt and pepper
If using chicken stock, you’ll need to ensure that you’ve carefully skimmed the fat off the top as there’s nothing less appealing than globules of cold animal fat in one’s soup.
Melt butter in large saucepan over medium heat. Add leeks and onions, and cook until tender but not coloured. Add the potatoes and stock. Season with salt and pepper. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and cover. Simmer for about 30 minutes until the potatoes are soft.
Purée the soup in a blender or food processor. Pass it through a sieve as you pour the liquid back into the saucepan, pressing down firmly on the solids to extract all the liquid. Discard the solids.
Bring the soup back to the boil, and whisk in the cream. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Cool in refrigerator for 3-4 hours until well chilled. Remember that cold soups require more seasoning than hot so taste again after chilling, and add more salt and pepper as needed.
Serve in cold bowls and garnish with chives.
Serves 6.
Strawberry and watermelon soup with rosewater
1.5 kilos seedless watermelon (with rind on)
250 grams strawberry
1-2 tablespoons sugar (depending on your sweet tooth)
1 lime, juiced
1 tablespoon rosewater
3 tablespoon vanilla yoghurt
½ cup of ice cubes
fresh mint leaves
Chop strawberries and sprinkle with sugar. Allow strawberries and sugar to sit while you remove the rind and dice the watermelon. Blitz in a food processor (if using watermelon with seeds, remove them first). Add strawberries, lime juice and rosewater, and purée until smooth (or leave some strawberry chunks if you prefer some texture). Chill until thoroughly cold. Before serving, blitz in some ice cubes (not too finely as you don’t want them to melt immediately). Serve in small, chilled bowls. Garnish with a spoonful of the vanilla yoghurt and shredded mint leaves.
Serves 4-6.
|
|
|
 |
News Archive
Langton's Classification V Set
Len Evans Foundation Auction
Behind Bindi: The Life of a Winemaker
Champagne –all about marketing or worth the hype?
London Launch of Burgundies 2011
The State of New Zealand Pinot Noir
Beauty and Balance the Razor's Edge
Yalumba Tasting – Aussie Rules
Hospices de Beaune Auction 2012
Langton's Classification Auction 2012
Hill of Grace 50th Anniversary Lunch
History of Langton's Classification
Melbourne Private Cellar - An Extraordinary Auction
Dr Ray Beckwith OAM - a Tribute
The Future of the Australian Wine Show System
The Jura's famous yellow wine
Clonakilla - A special Shiraz Viognier Tasting
Key News - September 2012
October Langton's Cellar Club
Single Vendor Flood Damaged Auction
Robert Parker & Jancis Robinson MW
A great Burgundian domaine restored
Seppelt Para Liqueur Vintage Tawny Collection - Special Auction
Vega-Sicilia - A special Single Vendor Auction
Opera Australia Christmas Auction
Out of the Blue Comes a Farm
The competitive Mr. Basset OBE, MW, Best Sommelier in the World
Uncorking Penfolds Clinic
Fruit of the Forest: Wild Fungi
Innovation and Experimentation
The Risk Taking Wine Psychologist
Sydney Single Vendor Auction
Hill of Grace 50th Anniversary Lunch
Australia's Top 100 Auction Wines for 2011
Grenache Day Blogger's Breakfast
A French Sleeping Beauty Awakes
Black Blue & Grey-Wolf Blass Luxury Release
An Enviable Inharitance - Olivier Leflaive
Key News - December Edition
Cross[x]Species Adventures
The China Syndrome: Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011
Christmas and another great vintage in Alsace
Down in the Woods: Franciacorta and Ca' del Bosco
Foie gras and sweet wine in the Loire
Key News - October Edition
Bordeaux Masterclass & Dinner
Invisible Touch: Benchmark Chardonnay & Pinot Noir
Key News - September Edition
The Unsung Heros of the French Wine Harvest
Penfolds White Winemaking Overview
It's only Natural: Torbreck Natural Wine Project
On Organics, Biodynamics and Sustainable Viticulture
Key News - March 2011 Edition
Langtons is now on Twitter & Facebook
The Nine Network: Burgundy 2009
Key News -February 2011 Edition
2007 Hospices de Beaune Review
Penfolds Rewards of Patience - Decant Guide
The Drinks Interval: Wine & Cricket
Last outpost of the Bristish Empire
Trevor Mast Charity Auction
Shipping for the Festive Season 2010
Keys News - November Edition
From Northern Ireland to New Zealand: Te Mata Coleraine 2006-1991
Charity Lot - 123 Classified Wines
BUY CLASSIFICATION POSTER
Variations on a Theme: Coonawarra Reds 2006-1982
Key News -October Edition
Key News - September Edition
Flaming Ferrari: Yalumba the Signature and Single Site New Releases
Classification V - Coming Soon!
Key News - August Edition
Blood, Sweat & Tears: Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 1987-2006
Bordeaux 2009 Reflections
A Perfect Ten? Bordeaux 2000 reassessed 10 years on
2005 Grange: Where do the Grapes come from?
Is it a Bird? A Plane? It's 707!
Meet the Winemakers Behind Today's Penfolds Great Reds
Bin Files: Penfolds 389 vs Grange
Treasured Bottles - Yarra Yering
The Evolution of New Zealand Pinot Noir
SINGLE VENDOR AUCTION DEC 2009
Opera Australia Christmas 2009 Auction
Classic Wines of Australia 1961-1970
Parker Review - Tuscany 2006 & 2007
French wine remains the worlds reference point
PINOSOPHY – Brian Croser’s Pinot Noir Manifesto
Penfolds Primary Reds Rise Above Stock Market Blues.
Langton’s Top 500 Australian Wine Prices 2007
The Great Wine Estates of Western Australia “2007 En-Primeur Campaign”
147 Vente Des Vins - Des Hospices de Beaune
LANGTON’S Classic PENFOLDS Wine Auction
Jasper Hill – The life and works of Ron and Elva Laughton
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon – Hunter Valley
Robert Parker Jr.’s top 180 Wines of the 2006 Vintage + Andrew Caillard's Bordeaux Impressions
Opening Gambit - Andrew Caillard MW en route to Bordeaux
Heritage & Evolution: A Tasting
Certainty! The Claret Drinker's Song
Wine Investment – Swim between the flags
Penfolds Classified Wines
Classic Penfolds Wine Auction
The Siren’s Song – Bass Phillip
Exchange Current Listings
Andrew Caillard MW reviews Bordeaux 2005
Bordeaux 2005 – Does it get any better than this? What the international reviewers are saying
Nicky Riemer – the new Head Chef at Langton’s Restaurant
Langton's Exchange in 2006
Langton’s 2005 Classification IV – International Reception, Predictions and Tastings
Langton’s 2005 Classification IV – International Reception, Predictions and Tastings
LANGTON’S EXCHANGE – BUY NOW and SAVE 15%
Great Wines Estates of WA Live Auction (V) – Open for Bidding Online October 21 to November 12
Langton’s 2005 Classification IV
2005 Classification in Gourmet Traveller WINE
Bordeaux 2004 – A Classic Vintage
Penfolds Grange Auction – Now Open
MCWILLIAMS Celebrity Blend-Off for Charity Wine Auction
Grange Auction Open for Bidding
LANGTON’S EXCHANGE – BUY NOW!
1998: Vintage of the Century
A Vertical Tasting of De Bortoli Noble One
The Story of Grange by Max Schubert (1915–1994)
Penfolds Grange Auction June 13 - July 14, 2003
A Lazy Eye on Pink Cliffs & One Eye
Henschke Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone
Selling at Langton’s in 2003
Australian Wine Exchange offers Giaconda Chardonnay
Large Format Grange Sets Records
The Sensational 2002 Central Otago Pinot Noir Vintage
Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration and Barrel Auction
The John (Jack) W Henderson Collection - Auction Closes February 3, 6pm
Shiraz Australia II Auction
Seppelt Para 100 Year Old Liqueur Vintage Tawny Barossa Valley - Vintages 1878-1903
|