Auldana Cellars St Henri Claret was one South Australia's most famous colonial wines. Established in 1853, the winery became one of the state's largest producers at the turn of the 20th Century. The St Henri label was first released around 1890 and was probably named after the winemaker Edmund Mazure's son Henri and wife Henrietta. A few 19th century bottles still exist in Penfolds museum cellar. However they are so rare that it is unlikely anyone will ever drink the wine!
The Auldana Winery and vineyards, adjacent to the Grange Vineyards at Magill were purchased by Penfolds in 1943. Penfolds winemaker John Davoren revived the St Henri label with the encouragement of Max Schubert, who was developing Grange at the time. For nearly ten years the two winemakers competed against each other to make a great Australian wine. The atmosphere was like a mini-Space Race. Outside observers watched with intrigue and awe as each of the winemakers refined and developed their wines.
John Davoren believed the future was for an elegant claret style whereas Max Schubert wanted something more powerful and richly flavoured. At one stage Max Schubert was told to stop making Grange, but his winemakers at the Magill winery, hid the barrels from 'top management' until it changed its mind!
By the early 1960s St Henri and Grange, both regarded as 'claret styles' and priced equally at first, had established recognition in the Australian market. Today the story of Grange has entered Australian folklore. The beautifully scented and elegantly proportioned Penfolds St Henri is regarded by many collectors as Grange's alter ego. These wines, with their ethereal quality, superb concentration and lasting power have the potential to develop and mature for fifty years or more.
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