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Pyrenees, VIC
Warm climate/Elevation 350-450m
The Pyrenees is located in western Central Victoria and was settled during the gold rush of the 1850s. The Australian Pyrenees, at the most southerly part of the Great Dividing Range, are located about 70km northwest of the Grampians. Many of the vineyards are planted at an altitude of around 350 to 400m on quartz and decomposed slatey soils over friable clay with easterly aspect. Rainfall is generally quite low necessitating drip irrigation. Late afternoon southerly breezes moderate temperatures during the growing season. This region is particularly suited to Shiraz and, to a lesser extent, Cabernet Sauvignon. Some excellent Chardonnays are also being produced.
Shiraz
Encompassing the Bendigo and Pyrenees districts of Victoria, these Shirazes show immense pepper-and-spice aromas and massive fruit concentration with quite finely structured tannins. They often develop meaty, gamey bouquets and silken palates. There are, however, differing styles. In the Pyrenees district, the philosophy is for more restrained, structured wines. The 1996 Taltarni Shiraz is quite Rhone-ish, with intense, ripe, blackberry and raspberry aromas, indelible acidity and pronounced tannins. In time, the wine will develop a quite pruney, licorice and earthy bouquet and the palate will soften out. Dalwhinnie is a similar but far more concentrated style with a strong following.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Pyrenees Cabernet is an evolving style and is in some respects in the shadow of Shiraz. The Dalwhinnie Cabernet Sauvignon is an elegantly structured wine, with earthy, cassis-like aromas and underlying oak, ripe tannins and fruit sweetness balanced by marked acidity. Taltarni is going through a period of experimentation at all levels as it redefines its style - the fruit is being picked at riper levels of sugar and flavour, vinification is being refined and attention has now been given to oak treatment. Older vintages have been restrained and elegant with earthy tones and plenty of interesting complexity. The best is probably yet to come.
Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's
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