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Yarra Valley, VIC
Cool climate/Elevation 50-400m
The Ryrie brothers, who explored a way through the Snowy Mountains to the Yarra Valley, planted grapes in 1838 only three years after the foundation of Melbourne by John Batman. A wine industry - developed by Swiss Settlers (particularly Hubert de Castella and Baron Guillaume de Pury) in the 1850s - thrived during the gold rush era and hey-day of the 19th century. The Yarra Valley wine industry died in the early 1920s, but was kick started again in the 1970s. The region is probably Australia’s best-known cool-climate area, yet it is really a patchwork of meso-climates. The more exposed sites are subject to severe spring frosts and winds. The area experiences a relatively high rainfall pattern and is known for its temperature extremes during ripening. Site selection seems to be a major issue – the best appear to be located where vines were once planted – generally on sandy clay loams and gravels. Hence Yeringberg and Yarra Yering have enjoyed apparent consistency. Mount Mary, on similar soils, has achieved an almost mythical reputation. Some vineyards, however, are planted on more fertile red volcanic soils and just don’t appear to show the same degree of success. The topography of the Yarra Valley creates an incredible set of variables. Vineyards are planted on elevations of 50 to 400m on varying aspects and management programmes. The Yarra Valley is well known for its Cabernet Blends, but this is based on the performance of just a few producers. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay can be quite exquisite, while Shiraz is variable. Sparkling wine production has become extremely important. The Yarra Valley produces some of Australia’s best.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Yarra Valley was originally developed in the 1850s and is a very old wine region. After many years of decline, if not wine death, the Yarra Valley has emerged as an important Cabernet Sauvignon producer. The idiosyncratic trio of Mount Mary, Yarra Yering and Coldstream Hills reflects the enormous range of Cabernet style and character that this region brings. The Yarra Yering Dry Red No. 1 style is dense and powerful, with enormous depth and balance, and needs years to come together. The 1986 vintage is now ready to drink, with a lovely meaty complexity and textured palate. The Mount Mary is a more restrained style with the emphasis on structure. The 1990 is brilliant, with extraordinary fruit definition, blackcurrant/cassis, cedary aromas, fine-grained tannins, concentration and length. Arguably the finest Cabernet of the entire Australian 1990 vintage. A string of good recent vintages, particularly 1998, should bring new wines into focus.
Pinot Noir
Yarra Valley is emerging as a new classic region for Pinot Noir. In fact, the so-called 'Melbourne Dress Circle', regions dotted around Melbourne, all have good potential. They include Geelong and Mornington Peninsula. It is probably premature to describe Yarra Valley Pinot Noir as a classic style. Mount Mary and Yarra Yering have been making them for years and they are completely different from each other. The Mount Mary is more classical, showing good fruit definition and purity, whereas Yarra Yering is a very individual, highly concentrated, if not soupy style. Coldstream Hills Reserve Pinot Noir, De Bortoli, Yarra Ridge and Tarrawarra have done much to impress Pinotphiles. These wines are quite Burgundian in style, indeed, almost caricatures. Recent auction results show a strong interest in Australian Pinot Noir, with the name of the producer most important.
Chardonnay
It is too early to recognise the Yarra Valley as the producer of a defined Chardonnay style. Without question, some of the most seductive and beautifully made Chardonnays in Australia come from around Melbourne. Again, the Burgundian model is often on show. The best producers make classically proportioned Chardonnay with complex, cashew nut and tropical fruit aromas and plenty of new oak vanillin. Coldstream Hills (especially the Reserve) makes classic Burgundian style Chardonnay, while Mount Mary makes a highly individual complex style with proven cellaring potential. Yarra Yering Chardonnays are variable and fail to inspire. De Bortoli and Tarrawarra are making some really lovely complex wines, although their investment value still lies in the pleasure of drinking.
Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's
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