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Margaret River, WA
Warm maritime climate/Elevation about 90m
A report published by John Gladstones in 1965 found that this area had a similar climate to Pomerol or St Emilion, with low frost risk, plenty of sunshine and equable temperatures within the growing season promoting even ripening. Serious vineyard development began in the late 1960s. The climate is warm and maritime. Essentially the soils derive from granitic and a gneissic rock over which laterite has formed. The region can be divided in three sub-regions: the cooler south between Yallingup and Karridale with predominantly lateritic gravelly loamy sands and sandy loams; the warm and sunnier Willyabrup in the centre with predominantly gravelly loams, but some gritty sandy loams and granitic gravels; and Margaret River in the north with similar soils, but slightly cooler temperatures. This is entirely consistent with style – the wines from Willyabrup being more generous than the highly structured wines of the north and the elegant styles of the south. The region is also subject to southeast trade winds. The Bordeaux grape varieties have thrived, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Although Chardonnay has problems with fruit set, the wines are generally outstanding. Vintage takes place between the end of February and mid-April. The region has established an astonishing reputation in 30 years, illustrating a consistency in quality and a strongly focussed winemaking culture.
Shiraz
Margaret River – better known for its Cabernet Sauvignon – makes some very approachable, but structured, Shiraz styles. These are elegantly proportioned and medium concentrated wines with intense spice, black cherry, cinnamon and raspberry aromatics, textured ripe tannins and plenty of length.
Cabernet Sauvignon
These wines are less opulent, but more structured than Coonawarra. Cedar and cassis aromas, wonderful purity of fruit, pronounced, yet fine, gripping tannins and acidity, and superb length, are all hallmarks of high-quality producers. Cape Mentelle, with its 1982 and 1983 Jimmy Watson Trophy-winning Cabernets, put the region on the map. Xanadu, Moss Wood, Cullen, Leeuwin Estate and Vasse Felix are making some great wine. Unlike Coonawarra, with its range of Cabernet styles, Margaret River producers seem to have reached consensus on what Margaret River Cabernet Sauvignon should be. The wines are rarely over-oaked, often restrained, and the idea that a particular vineyard site brings uniqueness to the wine is enthusiastically embraced. There is a strong belief that Cabernet from the northern area around Cowaramup shows slightly riper expressions than that from other areas. Cabernets from the south have more sinewy structures.
Chardonnay
Despite the curses of 'poor set' by the viticulturists, Chardonnay has a huge following here. Leeuwin Estate leads the way with the benchmark Art Series Chardonnay. Its classical tropical fruit, limey and melon-like aromas, hints of cashew nut, new oak and creamy, tropical fruit flavours combined with searing natural acidity, tightly-knit structure and overall persistence, have given the wine an enviable reputation. Pierro is making equally seductive, although slightly more alcoholic, Chardonnay. Cullen is outstanding, but is more restrained, and Cape Mentelle has made some beautifully defined examples in recent years. The 1995 and 1997 Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnays have consolidated Leeuwin's position at the very top of Australia's Chardonnay tree.
Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's
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