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The annual review of Australian wines by Robert Parker Jr. in his independently published and influential The Wine Advocate has become a highly anticipated event on Australian shores. In Australian wine writing circles Parker is generally loathed, with a reputation not unlike Harry Potter’s nemesis Voldemort, no doubt inspired by a soupcon of jealousy and professional rivalry. However the adjective-challenged wine trade and the specialist wine consumer follow him with cultish enthusiasm and wine producers (both new and old) are desperate for the king hit score of 95+ – the commercial equivalent of a home run.
Whatever your perspective, Robert Parker Jr. is very powerful. He is the kingmaker whose pronouncements can change your fortunes in a very meaningful way. With a Parker endorsement ascendant winemakers are welcomed into the fickle world of international fine wine like rock or movie stars. Nevertheless all stars eventually fade – some faster than others.
The Parker 2003 edition comprises reviews of an eclectic offering of premium and ultra-fine Australian wines. Robert Parker Jr. continues to strongly support the wines of Burge Family Winemakers, Clarendon Hills, d’Arenberg, Greenock Creek, Dutschke, Killikanoon, Marquis-Phillips, Torbreck and of course Chris Ringland whose Three Rivers Label emerged as our quintessential cult wine. Unfortunately an act of commercial bastardry forced the winemaker to change his label to Chris Ringland. The 1998 vintage is reviewed extremely favourably and will no doubt generate enough demand for his three barrels.
There are a number of wines that I am not familiar with. Barnadown Run, Barton Down, Batteley, Buckeley’s, Glaymond, Hazyblur, Koltz, Koonowla, Mak, Nugan Family Estate, Ox, Parson’s Flat, Messena, Poonawatta, Rafferty’s Rules, Sanguine Estate, Shirvington, Sylvan Springs, Three Hills, Twelve Staves, The Wishing Tree and Wit’s End are all new to me. The prize for this year’s silliest wine name goes to Barnadown Run’s Henry Bennett’s Voluptuary, which sounds like an orgy house. On closer scrutiny some of these new wine brands involve some of Robert Parker Jr.’s favourites – Rolf Binder, Chris Ringland, Drew Noon, Sparky Marquis and the eminence gris Dan Phillips (a US importer who trail-blazed ultra-fine Australian wine into the US). Others (noticeably and perhaps unfairly – such as Fox Creek) are downgraded. However all critics have a right to express their views, irrespective of their power.
Robert Parker Jr. also favourably reviews quite a few Australian classics including the 1998 Penfolds Grange and the 1998 Henschke Hill of Grace. I thought he was extremely gracious and decent about the 1998 Yalumba Octavius, putting quality before obvious personal reservations. Penley Estate, one of his favourite wineries in Coonawarra, attracts a tinge of disappointment (within a vignette of kind remarks). I am glad too that he embraces the Jim Barry Armagh Shiraz so positively. Those wonderful Rutherglen rare muscats and tokays, well recognised for their quality but with a history of commercial under-performance, will hopefully benefit greatly from his enthusiasms. While some Australian classics have performed, most score under the magic 95 points. Most of these wines are produced in relatively small quantities and I am sure many winemakers will be pleased to fall under the radar screen. After all, too much success can be a handicap.
There has been a tendency over recent years for wine brokers and retailers to extrapolate Robert Parker Jr.’s favourable reviews into marketing spin. No doubt the call centres – staffed by out of work actors – will be calling you soon. You will hear about the marvellous wine investment opportunities. You will be told that in a few years the Robert Parker Jr. wines you buy will be shipped to the United States and sold at a profit. I particularly like the wine called ‘Deer in Headlights’. Is it the buyer or the beast being blinded by the light?
Anyone buying wine for investment should be aware of what’s happening in the secondary wine market. It’s not a sure thing and there are many difficulties. Understanding this market is important because the reality is that most people buy wine on the secondary market to drink. Only a few wines will really appreciate in value. And they have to be bloody good! Langton’s Classification of Australian wine is the benchmark indicator of these wines, but there are also unclassified wines which have been performing well in recent years.
The influence of Langton’s Classification is palpable in Australia, but only emerging elsewhere. But Robert Parker Jr. does have real influence. The success of Three Rivers on the auction market is a very good example. Even though its value has dropped significantly, its price still remains relatively high compared to the mainstream ultra-fine Australian wine market. Inevitably there will be one hit wonders based on an extraordinary vintage, but generally Parker’s influence will only promote significantly the fortunes of a small coterie of Australian wines on the secondary market. More importantly, however, Robert Parker Jr.’s influence has opened up a huge potential market for high quality Australian wine – particularly in the US and Asia – demonstrating that absolute power is absolutely wonderful.
Robert Parker Jr.’s The Australia Report 2003 (published this month in The Wine Advocate) tastes 1,223 Australian wines and of these recommends 636. Of these 636 there are 61 that score 95 points or higher. It is instructive to see how these 61 wines actually perform on the Australian secondary market at Langton’s.
2001 d’Arenberg The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 98+/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
2001 Barossa Old Wine Co. Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – None
2001 Jim Barry The Armagh Shiraz, Clare Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Classified, Outstanding
2001 Barton Vale The Challenger Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – None
NV R.L Buller Calliope Rare Muscat, Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 100/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
NV R.L Buller Calliope Rare Tokay, Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
2001 Burge Family Winemakers Draycott Premium Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Cult
NV Campbell’s Muscat, Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
NV Campbell’s Merchant Prince Rare Muscat, Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 99/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
NV Campbell’s Isabella Rare Tokay (Muscadelle), Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
2001 Cape d’Estaing Admiral’s Reserve Shiraz, Kangaroo Island
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – None
NV Chambers Rosewood Grand Tokay (Muscadelle), Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
NV Chambers Rosewood Grand Muscat, Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 99/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
NV Chambers Rosewood Muscat, Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
NV Chambers Rosewood RareTokay (Muscadelle), Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 100/100
Current Market Presence – Minimum
NV Chambers Rosewood Rare Muscat, Rutherglen
RP Jr. score 100/100
Current Market Presence – Minimum
2001 Clarendon Hills Blewitt Springs Grenache, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Medium
2001 Clarendon Hills Old Vines Clarendon Grenache, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Medium
2001 Clarendon Hills Old Vines Kangarilla Grenache, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Medium
2001 Clarendon Hills Old Vines Romas Grenache, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
2001 Clarendon Hills Astralis Syrah, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 99/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
2002 Clarendon Hills Astralis Syrah, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
2001 Clarendon Hills Hickinbotham Syrah, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
2001 Clarendon Hills Piggott Range Syrah, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
2002 Clarendon Hills Piggott Range Syrah, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 95-97/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
2002 Craneford Merlot, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – None
NV Dutschke Muscat, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – None
NV Dutschke 22 YO Tawny, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – None
NV Dutschke Tokay, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 97/100
Current Market Presence – None
2000 Greenock Creek Apricot Block Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
1997 Greenock Creek Roennfeldt Road Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – Cult
2001 Henry’s Drive Reserve Shiraz, Padthaway
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Cult
1998 Henschke Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley
RP Jr. score 97/100
Current Market Presence – Classified, Exceptional
2001 Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Medium
2002 Kaesler Stonehorse Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 94-96/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Kilikanoon Reserve Shiraz, Barossa Wine
RP Jr. score 95-98+/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Kilikanoon Oracle Shiraz, Clare Valley
RP Jr. score 97/100
Current Market Presence – Minimal
2002 Marquis-Phillips Integrity Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 99/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Marquis-Phillips 9 Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Massena the 11th Hour Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 94-97/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Mitolo GAM Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 95-97/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Mitolo Reiver Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 94-96/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Mitolo Savitar Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 94-96/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Mr Riggs Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 94-96/100
Current Market Presence – None
2001 Noon Eclipse Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 99/100
Current Market Presence – Cult
200 Paracombe Somerville Shiraz, Adelaide Hills
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – None
2001 Parson’s Flat Cabernet Shiraz, Padthaway
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – None
1998 Penfolds Bin 95 Grange, South Australia
RP Jr. score 99/100
Current Market Presence – Classified, Exceptional
2002 Penny’s Hill Footprint Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 95-97/100
Current Market Presence – None
2002 Poonawatta Estate Shiraz, Eden Valley
RP Jr. score 92-95/100
Current Market Presence – None
1998 Chris Ringland Shiraz – formerly Three Rivers, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 99+/100
Current Market Presence – Cult
2002 Shirvington Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 99/100
Current Market Presence – None
2001 Shirvington Shiraz, McLaren Vale
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – None
2001 Torbreck Descendant Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – Cult
2001 Torbreck Les Amis Grenache, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – None
NV Yalumba Museum Release 50 YO Tawny, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – None
1999 Yalumba Octavius Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
1998 Yalumba Octavius Shiraz, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 97/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
1998 Yalumba The Reserve Shiraz Cabernet, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 98/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
1996 Yalumba The Reserve Shiraz Cabernet, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 96/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
1999 Yalumba The Signature Shiraz Cabernet, Barossa Valley
RP Jr. score 95/100
Current Market Presence – Emerging
Andrew Caillard MW
Langton’s
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