News
On 24 June 2009, Penfolds’ Chief Winemaker Peter Gago presented a vertical comparative tasting of Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz and Grange at Australia House in London.
There is no need to retell the story and techniques of Grange but the more unassuming 389, dubbed the “poor man’s Grange” or a “super second” of the New World is worth looking at more closely.
Max Schubert first made it in 1960 as a single vineyard Auldana Cabernet Shiraz, though it eventually became a multi-region blend. Schubert favoured warm climate fruit for 389, a long-standing decision central to its characteristic ripe sweet-fruited style.
Winemaking is not dissimilar to Grange: open-top fermentation tanks, some barrel fermentation, and maturation in a combination of new, one- and two-year old American oak hogsheads for 12 months or so.
The most recent Langton’s price for 2004 Bin 389 was $46 a bottle; the 2004 Grange was $422. Is Grange worth nine times more than Bin 389? This author says No!
As always, Peter Gago was an entertaining and accomplished speaker. In addition as usual, he was completely knackered from his travels. He works and plays punishingly hard but is never anything but thoroughly affable and courteous. Penfolds and Wine Australia could not possibly have a better ambassador.
Peter became Chief Winemaker in July 2002, so only the 2004 wines were “his”; his predecessor John Duval oversaw the other wines.
1986 Bin 389
Garnet, turning to mahogany at the rim. Leathery nose but retaining good freshness and fruit. A little bit of mint/eucalyptus – high Cabernet content? (68%, apparently). Mid-weight, not a blockbuster. Juicy, with some freshness still there. The tannins are more or less amalgamated into the wine, though there is just a bit of a tannic crunch on the finish. Good quality and in good condition. Drink up.
1990 Bin 389
Much deeper colour than the 1986, still purple at the core, with garnet at the rim. Distinctly minty, far more so than the ’86, with none of that leatheriness apparent. With aeration, spices emerged on the nose. More concentration than before, with more alcohol, tannin and extract. Not as much fun as the 1986, but still in good condition. Drink now.
1991 Bin 389
Similar colour to the 1990 but a shade deeper. More closed on the nose than the 1990 and 1986, sort of a halfway house between the aged leatheriness of the 1986 and the more youthful freshness of the 1990. Not as convincing as the previous wines, and not as concentrated as the 1990. Juicy palate, with some crunchy tannins on the “sweet” finish – ripe fruit and plenty of acidity. Drink now.
1996 Bin 389
A shade deeper than before. Very different style of nose to the previous wines –more “modern” and “sexy”, warmer and more beguiling, albeit rather more neutral and less characterful. Thick, ripe fruit on the palate, richer than the previous wines, with more tannins – though of course it is much younger. It feels “warmer” than before – higher alcohol? Yes – 14%. Drink now to 2015.
1998 Bin 389
Colour as before, though a little deeper. A bit closed on the nose, with some cedar character and dark berry fruit. Not as sexy as the 1996 but not as rustic as the older wines. Plenty of very dry tannins still present, which are not very charming at the moment, but they should soften up. The least approachable 389 yet but worthy of ageing. Built to last and far from ready. 2012 to 2020+.
2004 Bin 389
Deep ruby purple. Very young and primary, with cassis fruit and a bit of oak. Thick, rich fruit, as per 1996, still young and fuzzy, with plenty of tannin but very silky compared to 1998. Tightly wound at the moment but good quality. 2015 to 2025+.
1986 Grange
“Max Schubert would have turned in his grave”, said Gago of this wine’s 13% Cabernet – 1% more and it would have been “Shiraz Cabernet” on the label. Similar shading to the 1986 Bin 389, but a deeper, denser, warmer, more beguiling nose, with what a fellow taster called an “orange freshness”, albeit still quite closed. Smooth palate and silky tannins. Just about mature, with cedar flavours on the long, warming finish. Now to 2015+.
1990 Grange
This was Wine Spectator’s “Red Wine of the Year” in 1995 and caused a recalibration of Grange prices, said Gago. Similar colour to the 1990 Bin 389. Quite closed again, a bit more complex than the 1986, with some mint/eucalyptus. A bigger, more extracted version of the 1986 – a strong family resemblance but it feels as if it has more tannin and extract, though it was aged in oak for two months less than the ’86. The acidity and pH levels are identical to those of the previous wine! Cedar flavours and warm length on the finish again, even longer than the 1986. Deserving of its reputation. Now to 2020.
1991 Grange
More purple than the 1991 Bin 389. Quite closed but a more generous and modern style of nose, like the 1996 389. Very concentrated and powerfully built but not extracted or ponderous. Nowhere near ready. Drink 2015 to 2025.
1996 Grange
A little bit purpler than the 389. Cherry fruit. Very young and unformed. Sweet, luscious fruit on the palate, very moreish and charming by Grange standards. Plenty of refreshing acid – it makes such a difference with all that concentrated and sweet fruit. Silky tannins. Delicious. Drink now to 2020+.
1998 Grange
Viscous ruby purple. Different nose to the previous wines – plums rather than cherries. Massively built, thick and rich, finishes with sweet fruit and ripe but pronounced tannins. It coats the mouth and lasts for ages – by far the longest of the wines here so far. A leviathan of a wine that impresses with its size. Not to be touched for a long time. 2015 to 2030+.
2004 Grange
Viscous ruby purple. “You could drink this now”, reckoned Gago. Very primary nose, smelling as though it has come straight out of a tank. Even more luscious and moreish than the 1996, hence Peter’s comment. Comparable to the 1953 at a similar stage, according to some Penfolds old timers. “There’s a sheen to the wine”, reckoned Peter. Sweet, luscious fruit, with wood flavours on the finish. With its youthful charm, it just pips the 1998. Previously tasted with Peter at Penfolds’ Magill cellar on 6 March 2009, when I noted “one for the long haul. The best one for a few years.” It showed even better today.
Stuart George
|
|
|
 |
News Archive
For the love of Chestnuts
2012 En Primeur: Sauternes & Barsac Tasting Notes
Langton's Classification V Set
Len Evans Foundation Auction
Behind Bindi: The Life of a Winemaker
Champagne –all about marketing or worth the hype?
London Launch of Burgundies 2011
The State of New Zealand Pinot Noir
Beauty and Balance the Razor's Edge
Yalumba Tasting – Aussie Rules
Hospices de Beaune Auction 2012
Langton's Classification Auction 2012
Hill of Grace 50th Anniversary Lunch
History of Langton's Classification
Melbourne Private Cellar - An Extraordinary Auction
Dr Ray Beckwith OAM - a Tribute
The Future of the Australian Wine Show System
The Jura's famous yellow wine
Clonakilla - A special Shiraz Viognier Tasting
Key News - September 2012
October Langton's Cellar Club
Single Vendor Flood Damaged Auction
Robert Parker & Jancis Robinson MW
A great Burgundian domaine restored
Seppelt Para Liqueur Vintage Tawny Collection - Special Auction
Vega-Sicilia - A special Single Vendor Auction
Opera Australia Christmas Auction
Out of the Blue Comes a Farm
The competitive Mr. Basset OBE, MW, Best Sommelier in the World
Uncorking Penfolds Clinic
Fruit of the Forest: Wild Fungi
Innovation and Experimentation
The Risk Taking Wine Psychologist
Sydney Single Vendor Auction
Hill of Grace 50th Anniversary Lunch
Australia's Top 100 Auction Wines for 2011
Grenache Day Blogger's Breakfast
A French Sleeping Beauty Awakes
Black Blue & Grey-Wolf Blass Luxury Release
An Enviable Inharitance - Olivier Leflaive
Key News - December Edition
Cross[x]Species Adventures
The China Syndrome: Shanghai International Wine Challenge 2011
Christmas and another great vintage in Alsace
Down in the Woods: Franciacorta and Ca' del Bosco
Foie gras and sweet wine in the Loire
Key News - October Edition
Bordeaux Masterclass & Dinner
Invisible Touch: Benchmark Chardonnay & Pinot Noir
Key News - September Edition
The Unsung Heros of the French Wine Harvest
Penfolds White Winemaking Overview
It's only Natural: Torbreck Natural Wine Project
On Organics, Biodynamics and Sustainable Viticulture
Key News - March 2011 Edition
Langtons is now on Twitter & Facebook
The Nine Network: Burgundy 2009
Key News -February 2011 Edition
2007 Hospices de Beaune Review
Penfolds Rewards of Patience - Decant Guide
The Drinks Interval: Wine & Cricket
Last outpost of the Bristish Empire
Trevor Mast Charity Auction
Shipping for the Festive Season 2010
Keys News - November Edition
From Northern Ireland to New Zealand: Te Mata Coleraine 2006-1991
Charity Lot - 123 Classified Wines
BUY CLASSIFICATION POSTER
Variations on a Theme: Coonawarra Reds 2006-1982
Key News -October Edition
Key News - September Edition
Flaming Ferrari: Yalumba the Signature and Single Site New Releases
Classification V - Coming Soon!
Key News - August Edition
Blood, Sweat & Tears: Peter Lehmann Stonewell Shiraz 1987-2006
Bordeaux 2009 Reflections
A Perfect Ten? Bordeaux 2000 reassessed 10 years on
2005 Grange: Where do the Grapes come from?
Is it a Bird? A Plane? It's 707!
Meet the Winemakers Behind Today's Penfolds Great Reds
Bin Files: Penfolds 389 vs Grange
Treasured Bottles - Yarra Yering
The Evolution of New Zealand Pinot Noir
SINGLE VENDOR AUCTION DEC 2009
Opera Australia Christmas 2009 Auction
Classic Wines of Australia 1961-1970
Parker Review - Tuscany 2006 & 2007
French wine remains the worlds reference point
PINOSOPHY – Brian Croser’s Pinot Noir Manifesto
Penfolds Primary Reds Rise Above Stock Market Blues.
Langton’s Top 500 Australian Wine Prices 2007
The Great Wine Estates of Western Australia “2007 En-Primeur Campaign”
147 Vente Des Vins - Des Hospices de Beaune
LANGTON’S Classic PENFOLDS Wine Auction
Jasper Hill – The life and works of Ron and Elva Laughton
McWilliam’s Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon – Hunter Valley
Robert Parker Jr.’s top 180 Wines of the 2006 Vintage + Andrew Caillard's Bordeaux Impressions
Opening Gambit - Andrew Caillard MW en route to Bordeaux
Heritage & Evolution: A Tasting
Certainty! The Claret Drinker's Song
Wine Investment – Swim between the flags
Penfolds Classified Wines
Classic Penfolds Wine Auction
The Siren’s Song – Bass Phillip
Exchange Current Listings
Andrew Caillard MW reviews Bordeaux 2005
Bordeaux 2005 – Does it get any better than this? What the international reviewers are saying
Nicky Riemer – the new Head Chef at Langton’s Restaurant
Langton's Exchange in 2006
Langton’s 2005 Classification IV – International Reception, Predictions and Tastings
Langton’s 2005 Classification IV – International Reception, Predictions and Tastings
LANGTON’S EXCHANGE – BUY NOW and SAVE 15%
Great Wines Estates of WA Live Auction (V) – Open for Bidding Online October 21 to November 12
Langton’s 2005 Classification IV
2005 Classification in Gourmet Traveller WINE
Bordeaux 2004 – A Classic Vintage
Penfolds Grange Auction – Now Open
MCWILLIAMS Celebrity Blend-Off for Charity Wine Auction
Grange Auction Open for Bidding
LANGTON’S EXCHANGE – BUY NOW!
1998: Vintage of the Century
A Vertical Tasting of De Bortoli Noble One
The Story of Grange by Max Schubert (1915–1994)
Penfolds Grange Auction June 13 - July 14, 2003
A Lazy Eye on Pink Cliffs & One Eye
Henschke Hill of Grace and Mount Edelstone
Selling at Langton’s in 2003
Australian Wine Exchange offers Giaconda Chardonnay
Large Format Grange Sets Records
The Sensational 2002 Central Otago Pinot Noir Vintage
Central Otago Pinot Noir Celebration and Barrel Auction
The John (Jack) W Henderson Collection - Auction Closes February 3, 6pm
Shiraz Australia II Auction
Seppelt Para 100 Year Old Liqueur Vintage Tawny Barossa Valley - Vintages 1878-1903
|