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On 17 July 2009, I was invited to sample some old vintages of Yalumba’s The Signature and the new release Single Site wines at Angelus restaurant in Mayfair. Jane Ferrari, Yalumba’s irrepressible roving ambassador – her official job title is “Winemaker / Communications” – hosted the tasting.
Like Peter Gago at Penfolds, Jane is an outstanding ambassador for her company and the Australian wine industry. Even that curmudgeon (albeit a very charming and amusing curmudgeon) Robert Hill Smith has been known to pay her a compliment – though apparently it was only once.
I have met Jane on several occasions. In March 2009 I spent a full day chez Yalumba, mainly with Jane, who drove me around the Barossa and Eden, all the time trying to help me recover from jetlag. My most vivid memory of that visit is when we went to the Heggies vineyard, high up in Eden Valley. The vineyard is cheek by jowl with a dam, source of one of the Eden’s most iconic images – of the tree surrounded by water. I looked at Jane and asked, “haven’t we been here before?” We had, on my previous visit in 2004, but then the dam was full. Now it was, as they say in the rougher parts of Adelaide, dry as a dead dingo’s donger. It was an extraordinary sight and brutal evidence of the severe heat wave and drought that hit Australia that January. The older vines with their deeper roots came through the heat wave largely unscathed. Many of the drip-fed babies, however, perished.
This London tasting was extremely interesting, even if most of the older wines had lasted rather than improved. The Single Site releases are intended to “mark a milestone in the Hill Smith family's enduring commitment to exploring, unearthing and celebrating the complex terroir of the Barossa, a commitment that spans more than 150 years.” Only 250 cases each were made of the three Single Site wines shown here. These are the current vintages available in the UK; others have been released in Australia.
1966 Galway Vintage Reserve Claret
A blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, the latter from Koorlanda, overlooking Angaston. Chocolaty and meaty on the nose, though a bit oxidised. Medium-plus concentration, retaining good acidity, with cedar wood on the warming finish. Just drying out a bit at the end, with rustic rather than fine tannins. Drinkable but not to be kept. Not dissimilar to old red Bordeaux from a lesser vintage.
1977 Signature Series Claret Harry Mahle Blend
Made entirely from Barossa fruit, 65% Cabernet and 35% Shiraz. A very dull, cloudy colour, what Jane described as “milky.” Very leathery nose, with some oxidation apparent, and even more so on the palate. There is still an acid and tannin structure but the fruit lacks freshness. Well past its best, unfortunately.
1989 Signature Reserve Graeme McDonough Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz
Made from Barossa and Coonawarra fruit. This has a restrained nose of mint/eucalyptus and berry fruit. Medium-plus body but starting to dry out on the finish. The aromas become more interesting with aeration but the finish remains tart, with the fruit no longer able to support the acidity.
1999 The Signature John Heine Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz
All Barossa fruit. Much fresher and more youthful than the previous wines, with some leather aromas on the nose. The palate is impressive, with many sides to it. Dark and brooding fruit emerges at first, though it also retains some sweetness in the middle. Plenty of tannic grip, not coarse or extracted but rustic rather than velvety. Age to 2015 for more balance but it might have lost its freshness by then.
2004 The Signature John Auld Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz
Blended from 54% Cabernet and 46% Shiraz. Youthful nose that feels as though it is about to clam up before re-emerging in a few years time. Chewily tannic at the moment and apparently going through an awkward, closed-up phase. The 1999 is perhaps more elegant. Age to 2020+?
2005 Swingbridge Vineyard Craneford Eden Valley Shiraz
The Swingbridge vineyard was planted in 1920 near Craneford, about six miles south of Angaston. This wine is strikingly “cool climate”, or at least relatively cool, with a floral, peppery nose that is completely unlike a typical Barossa bruiser. The palate has thick, rich fruit, possibly a legacy of the 90-year old vines. Interesting and different. Age to 2015?
2005 Hahn Farm Vineyard Light Pass Shiraz Barossa Valley
This comes from “Block D”, planted in 1970, of the Hahn family’s vineyard at Light's Pass, north of Angaston. Lighter on its feet than the Swingbridge – the result of younger vines, perhaps. It finished a bit oak-dry (60% new French oak) but is a good drink. Age to 2015?
2005 Fromm Vineyard Lyndoch Shiraz Barossa Valley
The Fromm family’s vineyard on the northern outskirts of Lyndoch, about ten miles southwest of Angaston, was planted in 1935. This has a similarly juicy texture to the Hahn Farm wine but it follows through better. Good stuff. Age to 2015?
1996 The Octavius
Made from a number of very old vineyards in the Barossa, The Octavius is matured in 80-litre American oak “octaves”, with a higher than usual surface area to wine ratio. These unique barrels are made at Yalumba itself, which is one of very few wineries still to have its own cooperage. This ’96 has a leathery nose but retains good freshness. It is nicely balanced and rounded on the palate, though still a bit furry at the edges. Drink now or age to 2015 for more smoothness. Good wine.
1999 Pewsey Vale Museum Reserve The Contours Riesling
This historic Eden Valley vineyard was planted to Riesling in 1847. In the 1960s, its then owner Geoffrey Angas-Parsons joined Wyndham Hill Smith in resurrecting vines here. It is named for the contoured rows of vines planted in 1962.
Still very fresh and clean on the nose, with an ideally balanced palate that retains an acidic spine. “Wine sorbet,” said Jane. In great condition and a good example of how well Aussie Riesling can age – and under Stelvin, too. Pewsey Vale Riesling was bottled with a screwcap in 1970 and under Stelvin from 1976 to 1983. Since 1995, The Contours has been bottled with a Stelvin closure.
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