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“THE LAST OUTPOST OF THE BRITISH EMPIRE”:
QUINTA DE VARGELLAS 1967–2005
Located in an extremely remote location in the eastern-most Port-producing zone of the Douro Superior, Quinta de Vargellas became accessible by road only in the early 1970s, with no electricity until 1972.
Previously part owned by the Ferreira family, Taylor’s acquired Vargellas in 1893, when Phylloxera was ravaging the Douro Valley. At this time, the Quinta was capable of producing just six 550-litre pipes of Port. Today, it typically yields 245 pipes (134,800 litres/179,733 bottles). The north-facing vineyard comprises 25% Touriga Nacional, 25% Touriga Francesa and 22% Tinta Roriz, with the rest planted to Tinta Cão, Tinta Barroca, Tinta Amarela, Rufete and other varieties.
Vargellas is cheek by jowl with the River Douro and ripens up to two weeks earlier than cooler vineyards high up in the surrounding hills. On average, Vargellas is 2 degrees warmer across the year on average than Taylor’s other vineyard at Terra Feita.
In declared years, wine from Vargellas forms a major part of Taylor’s vintage blend but it is bottled as a Single Quinta in those years when a bona fide Taylor’s Vintage is not declared. With the launch of its Quinta de Vargellas 1958, Taylor’s was the first Port house to release a single Quinta Vintage Port.
In the winery, Vargellas is treated exactly the same as a Vintage Port but is aged in bottle at the Quinta for several years before release.
Some years ago, the English humorist Willie Rushton drew a cartoon of bowler-hatted Englishmen crammed onto the tiny railway platform at the remote Vargelas station (the station and village has only one “l”) in the Douro Valley. The caption read, “The last outpost of the British Empire.” Rushton also wrote a poem in the Quinta’s visitors’ book (which all guests must do):
I could sing out your praises, ’til ill,
Of the Rusty. I’ve had more than my fill
At Vargellas. Oh, blast!
You go downhill so fast
And the bloody walk back’s all uphill.
Quinta de Vargellas 1967
The 1967 vintage was declared by some people, such as Cockburn’s, whose Quinta do Roêda is the other side of the river from Vargellas. Now over 40 years old, this Vargellas is a pale tawny colour, with some ruby shading around the rim. Raisiny and a bit spirity on the nose, though still quite luscious on the palate and not drying out as much as the nose might have suggested. Not intensely sweet, with juicy acidity, and the tannins have been tamed so that they can now be barely felt. Finishes very hot, with the alcohol persisting rather than the fruit. A bit weedy overall, though it probably suffers by comparison with some of the wines here, and not a great vintage Port vintage.
Quinta de Vargellas 1970
This rare wine is the sole exception to the rule that Taylor’s only produces Quinta de Vargellas in undeclared Port vintages. When informed of the project to dam the River Douro to aid navigation and provide electricity, Taylor’s expected to lose the part of Vargellas that was sited below the railway line. Indeed, the Douro is higher than it used to be and has swallowed up other vineyards. The vertical limit of planting was 200 metres before the dam was built; today it is 300 metres. (The river narrows dramatically just before the dam, and it was here, at the treacherous Valeira Gorge, that Baron James Forrester drowned in May 1861).
The final blend for the 1970 Vintage Port included wines from this soon to be flooded vineyard, which – being so close to the river – was warmer than other parts of Vargellas. A single pipe (out of 34 made) was bottled separately.
A much deeper tawny colour than the 1967, with a better balance of fruit and alcohol on the nose than the previous wine. Much more appealing, complex and enveloping. At first, there are chocolate and coffee aromas, but after 90 minutes in the glass the nose turns more herbal, with a bit of leather too. Complex and ever-evolving but never becoming unctuous. Firmly structured, quite foursquare palate, with nice balance. There is still plenty of rich, warm fruit, and the tannins are perfectly amalgamated. Probably sweeter than most Taylor’s wines, with a lovely, glowing finish. This is quite delicious and a lovely wine, though some tasters felt that its warm origins were too obvious.
Quinta de Vargellas 1987
Deep ruby purple core, turning to tawny at the rim. Brett on the nose… Pretty murky. Still some tannic grip, with liquorice notes. Not yet ready, and still quite blurred in its structure. Better on the palate, but very unpleasant flavours on the finish. A poor bottle perhaps, as other tasters were more positive in their comments.
Quinta de Vargellas 1995
Quinta de Vargellas was also made in 1988 and 1991 but not shown here. Deep ruby purple, opaque at the core, and very viscous. Not much on the nose… Hibernating at the moment. After 90 minutes in the glass, it started to hint at meat and soy – very weird, and not all that appealing. Less brooding on the palate, though, and more open and generous. Sweet and juicy, with plenty of young fruit, finely textured tannins and warming length. Just starting to become approachable, though the nose will not unfurl for several years yet.
Quinta de Vargellas 1998
Deep ruby purple. A lighter, fresher and fruitier nose, certainly compared to the 1997 Vinha Velha (Old Vine) version of Vargellas tasted beforehand. The difference in weight and structure between this and the Velha is quite noticeable. This is not a huge wine like the Velha 1997, but still has good concentration. A fruity style of Vargellas, already approachable and drinkable, though the depth of fruit and tannin suggest a long life ahead.
Quinta de Vargellas 2001
Deep ruby purple, viscous in the glass. A generous, herbal nose, more open than some of the older wines. This seems thicker and richer than previous Vargellas vintages. Asked about this apparent change of direction at Vargellas, Adrian Bridge, Managing Director of Taylor’s, answered, “We have got better at what we do.” During his pre-tasting presentation on the terroir of the Douro, he alluded to global warming: “We’ve had some strange climatic conditions over the last ten years… We’ve had some very heavy rainfall.” The long-term averages are unchanged, he explained, but there are occasional spikes of very unseasonal weather. The 2001 has some tannin but it is not astringent and the wine is already approachable, with excellent length. A nice wine, which charms with its lush fruit and silky tannins.
Quinta de Vargellas 2005
This Vargellas has the crudest and least well-formed nose of all the wines tasted, appealing in its way, but too young to read properly. Luscious, fruit-packed palate, though there is noticeably more tannic extract than previous vintages. Similarly styled to the 2001 – lushly textured and will probably make charming early drinking.
Stuart George
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