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A Bridge Too Far -  Mosel
A Bridge Too Far
By Rosi Hanson


One day last September, I sat in a garden by the wide river Mosel in Germany enjoying the late afternoon sun. I was in Kinheim-Kindell to taste 09 Rieslings made by biodynamic winemaker Rudi Trossen. Wild fungi gathered in the local woods were spread out to dry on benches. The family were sick of eating them for supper so now they would be stored for winter. Next to us were flowerbeds bursting with vibrant dahlias and Michaelmas daisies and on the table were samples of spatleses from the vineyards opposite.

Rudi Trossen is a quirky kind of guy, as the wine labels designed for him by an artist friend might suggest. He has a dry sense of humour, and is something of a philosopher. Conversation ranged over poetry, music, art, not to mention the improvement he is making to the soil by biodynamic methods, and the arguments he sometimes has with his wines – “I like to get this wine dry, but he won’t – I talk to him, but no! So I say you go your own way” (this about a Schieferstern Riesling Spatlese Feinherbe whose flavours were magnificent).

Before long the subject of the Hochmoselubergang (literally the high Mosel overgoer) reared its ugly head. Rudi is vehemently opposed, as most growers here are, to this controversial bridge project. The massive 158m tall, 10 column bridge will cut through world-famous vineyards in a place of scenic beauty favoured by Germans for healthy holidays, to walk and cycle in unpolluted tranquility. Hugh Johnson has called it “This mad, destructive, unnecessary road…” Jancis Robinson has also campaigned against it, as have many others who love the wines and care about the future of the wine-makers.

Leaving the garden, we walked along the river. We stood by the ferry that crosses the river at Pundereich (only on Mondays, Wednesday and Fridays though, and avoid lunch hour). Posters announced an imminent walnut festival. Ducks waddled up the slipway; swans glided, large barges slid by. Vertiginous vineyards – some of the steepest in the world – were facing us. It was hard to believe that any government would want to wreck this idyll for a bridge that seemingly few think is needed. But two years ago work started; in the depths of the countryside you come across an ugly concrete pillar or the beginnings of a slip road going nowhere.

Later, eating a dish of those seasonal mushrooms at a local riverside restaurant with Knut Aufermann, there was more bridge talk. He is vigorously involved in the anti-bridge movement. His partner, Sarah Washington, is the spokesperson for Pro-Mosel, which has spearheaded the campaign. I don’t suppose either of them would have thought they would become involved in politics. In what you might call real life, both are musicians. Knut wrote his MA thesis on the use of feed-back in music, and was involved in setting up Resonance, a cutting edge music radio station in London; Sarah’s interest in sonic art has something to do with sound bending or breaking which I can’t say I have really understood.

I didn’t think I would ever have an interest in German politics, but since that trip, I have tried to keep up with the situation concerning the bridge. In the election of March 2011, the Green Party won a significant percentage of the vote in Rhineland-Pfalz, the state responsible for building the bridge. Good news for Pro-Mosel, you might think.

When the Greens agreed to talks about forming a coalition with the Social Democrats Sarah Washington expected them to put their money where their mouth had been during the election campaign and negotiate to bring an end to the bridge.

Building was indeed put on hold, but not for long. By the beginning of May Decanter was reporting that the Greens had folded under pressure from their new best political friends, and the monster motorway would go ahead.

“There was no real building freeze” thinks Sarah Washington now. “That was just a sham to keep us quiet and let the “professionals” get on with their job in peace!” No wonder she is angry. Jubilation after the election was tempered by a little caution, but she didn’t expect this kind of let-down. “It turns out that the Greens had neither the guts nor a strong enough conviction to make this the key issue of the talks – as they had previously indicated they would. It was the only major topic that kept appearing in the press, yet not everyone in their team was convinced by it, and they did not expend the energy needed to convince the doubters, nor even let their party members know the true significance of the bridge for the future of Green politics.”

She is bitter about the amount of time she and other members of the anti-bridge movement put into campaigning for the Greens. “ Instead of reaping the rewards of the golden egg we had laid for them, they are now under attack from the press. It is a PR disaster that they did not even predict. I had thought the press was the main reason they would act as strongly as they could for this cause, but it seems they did not understand it at all. They were happy that we created so much good publicity for them in the run up to the elections, but now are angry with us for the backlash! But not nearly as angry as their new and old supporters in the Middle Mosel are with them!”

Pro-Mosel is trying to regroup. Although its members are exhausted and dismayed, they seem determined to fight on.

“We have kicked up so much dirt I still think we might find a way to stop it”, says Sarah Washington. “Naturally, we are exploring all avenues at the moment, searching for the next bombshell that will help us put a spanner in the works. Time is of course now pressing heavily against us and we certainly need a huge dose of luck.”

By Rosi Hanson

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