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For white Burgundy lovers around the world the name Leflaive has long been a magnet. It was in the 1970s that Domaine Leflaive made its name globally when the much-loved bon viveur Vincent Leflaive was in charge, although, as Jasper Morris explains in his recent book “Inside Burgundy,” the family has been established in Puligny Montrachet since 1717. Recently there has been a change worth noting.
As often in Burgundy it is a question of which cousin owns what vines. Briefly to re-cap, the cast is as follows: Olivier Leflaive and Anne-Claude Leflaive-Jacques are top of the bill. Respectively the son of Joseph, and the daughter of Vincent, they are cousins. From 1982-1990 Olivier was co-manager of the Domaine with his uncle Vincent, who died in 1993. In 1990, Anne-Claude took over from her father as co-manager with her cousin. After several years of experimenting, the vineyards were converted to biodynamic cultivation in 1997.
Chafing at the fact that demand for the Domaine’s wines regularly outstripped supply, in 1985 Olivier and his brother Patrick started a merchant business, Olivier Leflaive Freres, buying grapes to vinify, tend and mature in Puligny Montrachet. Although technically a negociant, the business is run in the style of a grower; their first purchase of vines was made in 1990. In their early days they owned or distributed the produce of 8.5 ha of vineyards, including Meursault Poruzots, Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumees, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet both white and red, some Bourgogne white and red, and Aligote´. They now own 15 ha, with the wines made from their own vines labelled “Recolte du Domaine”.
In 2009 the brothers recovered their share of the family vines, hitherto cultivated as part of Domaine Leflaive. Their first release of these wines is the 2010 vintage, under the label Olivier Leflaive Domaine. The wine-maker, Franck Grux, is clearly excited. He always knew it was part of Olivier Leflaive’s game plan to claim his inheritance, but it has been a tantalisingly long wait. “I have waited 17 years to make this wine” he told me at a tasting in London this month to launch their new cuvees. What he has finally got his hands on is an enviable parcel of vines.
First up was Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru “Sous le Dos d’Ane”, (meaning under the donkey’s back). The vines lie in a sun-catching amphitheatre, adjoining Meursault-Perrieres, and sheltered to the north by a large, long hammock of stones resembling the eponymous slumbering animal.
Their Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Folatieres, from the village’s largest 1st growth, lies on the same contour as Chevalier-Montrachet to its south – they are separated by stony uncultivatable land – in a plot known as “en la Richarde.” The vines were planted in 1983.
Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru Les Pucelles lies across a narrow road from the Grand Cru Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet. The wine comes from a single plot which was planted in 1958-61. It has been fermented and aged in specially made 300 and 450 litre barrels, designed to maximise the quality of the limited production.
The Batard-Montrachet comes from vines planted in 1962 and entirely from the Puligny-Montrachet section of the Grand Cru. They are situated within what is known as the Batard-Montrachet “shoulder”, the plot which lies between Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet and Le Montrachet itself. The wine has been fermented in 350-500 litre barrels, 40 per cent of which were new.
Finally, comes a tiny production of Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru, fermented and aged in 3 barrels, two of which were 350 litres which subtly diminished the 40 per cent new oak character. These vines were planted in 1955; perhaps partly thanks to the biodynamic cultivation, they are full of youthful vigour.
The critics have not yet spoken, but Franck Grux, pouring the wines for private clients at the tasting, was looking confident.
Olivier Leflaive, his trademark hat usually at a slightly rakish angle, has the air of a cool dude who has just put down his guitar. But don’t be misled. This is one serious wine-maker/business man. It is true that his first love was, and perhaps still is, music. After business school and military service, from 1974 – 81 he turned a passion for folk music into a business both as a performer and as impresario, promoting then little known French artists, and spreading his knowledge of Folk from all over the world.
From show biz to accountancy seems a bit of a jump but in 1981, his father’s ill health precipitated this somewhat surprising career change. He took a teaching post as a professor of public administration and accountancy between 1982-84, simultaneously joining his uncle in managing Domaine Leflaive.
After establishing Olivier Leflaive Freres, the next step was a restaurant – “the aim is to sell more wine”. In 1996 a simple table d’hote adjoining the winery began drawing in an enthusiastic bunch of visitors who came to taste and stayed to eat good local dishes. Eventually the restaurant, La Table d’Olivier, moved across the village square, to an old stone building where, in 2007, a hotel was opened to complete the operation. It attracts an international clientele to this small, quiet, attractive village. “Tasting lunches” for groups are orchestrated by a sommelier to talk through the Leflaive wines and matched dishes –if you are lucky, the old showman himself may turn up and entertain the guests. “Dans le vin iI y a un peu du spectacle” he says (there is a bit of show business in wine), and there is a sense that he cannot resist an audience. He makes a link between his three careers in music, teaching and wine – “the common theme is interaction with spectators.” Or, to put it another way, a wish to draw people in.
Since 2010 Olivier Leflaive has claimed to be semi-retired. “La succession” is in place – his daughter Julie is Director of the hotel, and his son-in-law Jean Soubeyrand a director of the negociant business. He may want to spend more time with his guitar, or possibly his grand children, but with the launch of the wine from his newly reclaimed vines it is hard to imagine that he won’t be fully involved. “My greatest pleasure in life is to perform, and “les rencontres humaines””, he says. White wine lovers will be pleased to hear that.
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