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Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson, MW are the best-known wine critics in the world. Recently at a wine conference in Hong Kong they were both billed as star attractions. A stellar group of wine writers, commentators, winemaking nabobs and various identities gathered together supposedly to talk about the future of wine. Instead most took the opportunity to speak about themselves or to spruik their own wares. The most thoughtful and discreet were lost in a sea of self-promotion and unbridled ambition.
The wine media is in crisis. Overt self-awareness, narcissism and psychopathic tendencies are becoming increasingly magnified as the new generation of international wine commentators and self- proclaimed opinion leaders seek to build their brands; some with the aspirations of kicking the emperor and queen of wine criticism off their perch. New media, with its easy access to the wine-loving world, has gathered extraordinary momentum in recent times. The instant transfer of information is astounding. Yet the opinion is often unedited, unbalanced, boastful and retarded.
Both Robert Parker and Jancis Robinson, MW both share a love for wine and a desire to communicate that obsession. One is lawyerly, certain of view and precise. The other is journalistic, egalitarian and generous in spirit. Judging by the extraordinary media scrum in Hong Kong, Robert Parker is an international celebrity. Jancis Robinson is held with reverence usually reserved for of a Head of State. Their authority and identity have been built on talent, decades of hard graft, a genuine love for wine and an ability to make the subject interesting. Greatness, reputation and authority are not things you can buy. It has to be earned.
The world of fine wine is incredibly complex. The intrinsic value of any wine is no more than $100 a bottle at a stretch. It is the narrative that plays the strongest role in capturing the imagination and developing market interest. Authenticity, beauty, craftsmanship and rarity can take wine to a more cerebral level; its price no longer related to the cost of production. Most great wines, however, have an historical background or longstanding reputation. Modern classics are steeped in authenticity or voice of place. These attributes are real and meaningful. They also have to be earned.
Robert Parker’s opinions, scores and influence have created great wealth, monetised wine investment and brought joy and anger. His presence is felt very strongly in the collectors market, where Bordeaux prices particularly are inextricably aligned with the reputation of producer, vintage conditions and RP/100 scores. ‘Parkerisation” has seeped into the language of wine and is used as an unfair pejorative or as a factual reflection of his power. Jancis Robinson, does not bring nearly as much controversy. Although her opinions are valued and her scores used widely, they do not drive the market in the same way.
As he is not yet dead, Robert Parker’s recent remarks about “what makes a wine great?” may provide some inkling to his pretenders on how to follow his success;
“There are only a handful of elements that make wine great.”
“Firstly it has to satisfy one’s hedonistic and intellectual senses. The nuances of wine are revealed in the same way as an artichoke or onion is unpeeled.”
“All great wines have to offer a depth and interest of aromas and flavours without heaviness. “I am looking for the perfect equilibrium and symmetry where no element dominates. In other words wines of complete balance.”
“It should possess magnetism from the time it is first poured to the last drop.”
“The noble component of longevity is the birthright of all truly great wines. It is possible to enjoy great wines in their youth; the generously proportioned 2009 Bordeaux reds are a fine example. However they will continue to be pleasurable and develop more complexity with age. Many will drink well for 30 years, 50 years or 70 years hence. However don’t mix these type of wines with lumps that may last for decades but never really improve with age.”
“Like great art, music and cuisine, great wines must have a singular and unforgettable personality”. Robert Parker mentioned the cuisine of distinguished French chef Joel Robuchon as an exemplar of memorable distinction; “I could identify his signature cuisine blind,” he said.
Oscar Wilde once said, “There is only one thing in life worse than being talked about, and that is not being talked about.” It is doubtful, however, that self-promotion builds up a longstanding reputation or an enduring legacy. However it is a boon for website developers and new media providers.
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