Deep, dark, dense purple/red colour with a smoky, sooty, coal-dusty note to the earth and savoury nuances, overlying dark plum fruit. There's a touch of oak but it's subtle. The wine is intense and fleshy, full and soft, with high extract and almost chewy texture. Tar and bitumen, soot and coal dust, a very typical Bin 28 and very good. The finish is extremely long. This will be a top vintage in maturity. (McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully, Robe. No new oak.) Drink to 2042. 95 points, The Real Review.
"From McLaren Vale, Barossa Valley, Padthaway, Wrattonbully and Robe, matured for 12 months in used American hogsheads. Expected depth of colour; McLaren Vale instantly makes its mark with the seductive lick of dark chocolate on the bouquet, and even more so on the palate. But it's not the makeup, least of all heavy, for there are many voices of red, purple and black fruits in the choir. The wine is medium to full-bodied, and perfectly balanced both in terms of flavour and structure."
96 points, Wine Companion (August 2017)
"A resiny introduction. Meat, spices, black cherry and plums, a sweet chocolatey note adding a creaminess to the texture as much as it does flavour. There’s plenty of power here, plenty of fruit; lovers of Bin 28 will be neither excited nor disappointed; it delivers handsomely on its promise to be ‘a good red’. Personally I wasn’t all that enthused but I would agree that it is reliably good."
92 points, Wine Front (October 2017)
"Deep garnet-purple colored, the 2015 Shiraz Kalimna Bin 28 has nose of crushed black currants and blueberries with subtle notes of licorice, tar, roses and tapenade. Medium to full-bodied, opulent and densely packed with black fruits and savory layers, it has a solid frame of rounded tannins and wonderful freshness, finishing long."
93 points, Wine Advocate (November 2017)
"McLaren Vale leads the blend this year, this has raspberry and red cherry fruits with red plum and blueberry, hints cooler rhubarb and red currant. The palate has a smooth fluid feel, tannins are a little underdeveloped, it finishes a bit short and simple, tannins unresolved for now. Try around 2020."
90 points, JamesSuckling.com (October 2017)
South Australia is the driest state on the world’s driest continent. Covering almost 1 million (984 377km) square kilomteres, it represents 12.8% of the Australian land mass. Sweeping plains are intersected by a spine of relatively low lying ranges, the Mount Lofty/Flinders Ranges which extend through the heart of the State. Over 50% of the state is elevated at under 150 metres. The Great Artesian basin covers almost one-third of the State. The major river is the River Murray which lethargically makes its way into the Southern Ocean. This water mass has a moderating effect on climate, particularly in the southern regions of South Australia where most vines are planted.
Summers are generally hot and dry with relatively mild nights. Winters are cool. Rainfall occurs mostly during late autumn/winter (May, June, July, August). Drought and salinity are major concerns.
The principle wine regions in South Australia are; the Adelaide Hills, Barossa (comprising the Barossa and Eden Valleys), Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek, McLaren Vale, Padthaway, Coonawarra and the Riverland. Vineyard expansion has also extended to Wrattonbully, Mount Benson, Bordertown, Robe, Southern Fleurieu and the Flinders Ranges.
It is a tradition for many wine companies to make multi-district blends from South Australian fruit – the idea of house style taking precedence over regional definition. Penfolds pioneered this concept. The vagaries of vintage variation can be evened out by fruit selection, ensuring quality at a high level. However there is debate that this concept comes at the expense of the ‘soul’ of the wine. Penfolds Grange is probably the most famous multi-district blend and is an excellent counter-argument.Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's
Penfolds is probably the most extraordinary of the world’s wine brands with an enviable reputation for quality at every price level. The original Penfold was an English doctor who, in 1844, planted grapes at Magill, now a suburb of Adelaide. However, it was not until the late 1940s that Penfolds began to forge a reputation for red wine.
The Penfolds house style emerged from a fortified wine producing culture and evolved as a winemaking philosophy which has had a profound effect on the entire Australian wine industry. Many of the techniques initially adopted to make Penfolds Grange would become part of the wider Penfolds winemaking culture. The number of techniques employed in the research and development of Penfolds wines is astonishing. Max Schubert and his team pioneered: major advances in yeast technology and paper chromatography; the understanding and use of pH in controlling bacterial spoilage; the use of headed down/submerged cap fermentation and the technique of rack and return; cold fermentation practices; the use of American oak as a maturation vessel and perhaps most critically, partial barrel fermentation. Nowadays, the use of American oak and barrel fermentation for instance is considered traditional Barossa winemaking practice!
Today, Penfolds house style embraces the concept of multi-regional blending, optimum fruit quality, the use of fine-grained American or French oak, barrel fermentation and maturation. Overall, the Penfolds style is about highly-defined fruit aromas, fruit sweetness, ripe tannins, richness, power and concentration. The number of iconic wines that have emerged from the Penfolds stable over the years is remarkable. Bin 389 a Cabernet Shiraz blend released in 1960 is now considered the quintessential Australian wine blend. Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz and Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz released in 1962 pre-empted the contemporary enthusiasm for regional definition by about 25 years. Improved vineyard management, site selection and winemaking brought about subsequent releases of Bin 707 and Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon. The Penfolds Wine Making Philosophy is the accumulation of more than half-a-century of knowledge and winemaking practice initiated by Max Schubert and subsequently refined by Don Ditter, John Duval and Peter Gago. Their collective commitment to multi-regional and vineyard blending contributed to a consistency of style and quality that has cemented Penfolds reputation as the foremost producer of premium age-worthy red wines in Australia.