One of the two Grand Crus from this iconic Domain, this one the ‘wilder’ of the family.
The soils here are on gentler slopes, (less well-drained, less quickly warmed by the sun) than their stablemates. This lends the Bonnes-Mares a distinctive individuality in the portfolio. It is more purple, rather than ruby, and takes its energy from structure, rather than minerality.
It's "unconventional and free-thinking” says vigneron Eric Bourgogne.
"South-east corner, downslope, so all terres rouges/red clay. (The Morey-St-Denis side has more structure.)
Quite different from the other wines at this domaine with a deeper purple colour and really firm, savoury nose. More earth-bound, less ethereal. Hint of vegetal – by which I don’t mean unripe. Broad on the palate. Less tense and more brutal. Needs a lot of time. Lots to chew on on the finish."
17.5+ points, jancisrobinson.com (November 2017)
"The Bonnes-Mares is always a bit of an outlier in the de Vogüé range, as Vincent Millet believes it tolerates extraction better and thus performed two punch-downs a day during fermentation. Whether for that reason, or because Bonnes-Mares is always Chambolle’s most structural wine, the de Vogüé rendition is always rather firm, missing the grace and transparency of the Musigny or Amoureuses. The 2016 is true to form, opening in the glass with a nose of cherry, preserved fruits, currant and peony, all framed by new oak. This is followed by a rich, massive palate impression, with good concentration and depth, and plenty of juicy energy and mineral grip."
93 points, Decanter (October 2017)
"(30% new oak; production was down by two-thirds owing to the frost): Briary red fruits and black cherry on the nose, along with some subtle spicy oak notes; showing less of this wine's normal blueberry and mineral aromas. Fairly smooth but tight, conveying an impression of slightly green acidity to the complex flavors of medicinal dark cherry, herbs, peony, lilac, licorice and menthol. The most tannic of these 2016s to this point and a bit lacking in give. Finishes with dark fruits and a repeating note of menthol. Hard to assess at this stage of its evolution in barrel."
(90-93) points, Vinous (January 2018)
Deep ruby. Once again there is an exuberant freshness to the nose of plum, violet, peony, spice and earth aromas where a top note of kirsch is present. There is outstanding density and power to the big-bodied and overtly muscular flavours that deliver fine complexity on the caressing, sappy and harmonious finish. This too is lovely and should drink well a bit earlier than it normally does if that's your preference.
93 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.