One of the two Grand Crus from this iconic Domain, this one the ‘wilder’ of the family.
The soils here are on gentler slopes, (less well-drained, less quickly warmed by the sun) than their stablemates. This lends the Bonnes-Mares a distinctive individuality in the portfolio. It is more purple, rather than ruby, and takes its energy from structure, rather than minerality.
It's "unconventional and free-thinking” says vigneron Eric Bourgogne.
"The de Vogüé Bonnes Mares comes from a sizeable 2.7ha on red clay soils and is always the most structured and ‘masculine’ of the domaine's wines. It's dark and intense, with violet and blueberry scents, a plush, concentrated palate, stylish 35% new wood and the depth and concentration to age. Rich and very appealing."
97 points, Decanter (November 2018)
"South-east corner on the Chambolle side, downslope, so all terres rouges/red clay. Red soil gives more juiciness and sappiness, the white marl more tension. Downslope the vineyard is ‘relaxing’, suggests Millet. Upslope on the limestone it is ‘ready for action’. (The Morey-St-Denis side has more structure.) The one wine that invites punchdowns, he says.
Fragrant with dark fruits and the sweetness of blueberry. A cedary freshness ‘of the forest’. Dark and peppery too. On the palate, rich, full and sweet but no excess sweetness, with floral notes that are more violets than roses. Succulent and chewy but leaves the mouth clean."
17.5 points, jancisrobinson.com (November 2018)
"The 2017 Bonnes Mares Grand Cru is also unusually saturated in hue this year, though Millet reports having done no more pigeage than usual. Offering up aromas of dark cherries, wild berries, cassis, dark chocolate, peony and caramelized orange rind, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and elegantly fine boned, with chalky structuring tannins, a pure core of fruit and a long, fragrant finish. Despite its disconcertingly deep hue this is one of the most supple, elegant renditions of the de Vogüé Bonnes Mares in the last decade."
(92-94) points, Wine Advocate (February 2019)
"The 2017 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru has a not dissimilar bouquet to the Les Amoureuses, though here there is slightly more red fruit and perhaps a heightened sense of Pinoté. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly grippy tannin, good backbone (as usual) and a saline influence that becomes more accentuated toward the fresh finish. This feels a little tight-lipped at the moment compared to others tasted from barrel, but it also feels persistent and, for want of a better word, enigmatic."
(92-94) points, Vinous (January 2019)
A very ripe yet agreeably fresh nose reflects notes of blueberry, plum liqueur and violet that are cut with spice and earth hints. The exceptionally rich and impressively full-bodied flavours evidence a taut muscularity, all wrapped in an overtly powerful and lingering finish that is naturally sweet. As one would reasonably expect this is quite firm but the 2017 version appears to be a bit less structured than it usually is.
91-94 points, Allen Meadows, Burghound.
