Langton’s Selections Castagna Genesis Syrah, Castagna La Chiave, Castagna Un Segreto Julian Castagna is an intellectual rebel with an inbuilt navigation system which seemingly goes against the tide of sameness and boredom. His small, biodynamic Estate in the foothills of the Australian Alps cloaks an elevated ridgeline at Beechworth and is one of the most exciting vineyards in Victoria. The vines are anchored in decomposed granitic loams layered over clay. The climate here is Mediterranean, but relatively continental with hot days and cool nights. The winemaking philosophy is laissez faire and traditional. The Genesis Syrah – co-fermented with Viognier – is a fantastic wine with freshness, gorgeous fruit definition and minerality. The Viognier component gives extra perfume and viscosity. Vinification is non-interventionist; Castagna believes a winemaker’s role is not to stuff up the integrity of the fruit by using a heavy hand. This extends to oak maturation. The wine sees a proportion of new oak but the percentage differs each year according to vintage. It is usually around 50% but can be less. Castagna particularly likes using Bossuet barrels (coopered in Bordeaux) which bring structure and Sirugue which bring richness. The wines have remarkable blackberry pastille/meaty/bacon/violet aromas, slinky tannins and underlying new oak. Castagna Un Segreto is a Sangiovese/Syrah blend. Castagna calls it a ‘super Beechworth’ wine alluding to the ‘super Tuscan’ genre. While early days, this wine has all the hallmarks of something special. The outstanding beautiful and silky smooth La Chiave (The Key) Sangiovese is arguably one of the best of its kind with red cherry/ mocha fruit and lovely richness on the palate. Sauvage – a blend of declassified Genesis and La Chiave – has been released in response to both the smoke tainted 2003 and 2007 vintages. Castagna says, “The smoke taint wasn’t really that bad in 2007. It was really because the growing season was short and it resulted in a wine that didn’t really show what Genesis of La Chiave is all about. I have been a buyer of fine wine since my 20s. My expectations are very high. I feel that I must also bring that level of scrutiny to my own wines.” All wines are sealed under Diam, a technical cork. The Ingenue Viognier, “a bit on the side”, is classical with apricot/camomile aromas and flavours. In 2005 Castagna also made a Sparkling Genesis Syrah confined to just 6 barrels and disgorged intermittently. Overall the quality and attention to detail makes Castagna one of Australia’s great emerging wine producers. It has done much to bring attention to the Beechworth region (along with Giaconda) and promises to become an enduring feature on the secondary wine market. Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's