The exact meaning of ‘Les Caillerets’ is uncertain but it is an old French word for stones, and the soils of this first-growth vineyard are very pebbly. The JNG parcel, barely more than one hectare facing south-east at 300-310m at the southern end... ‘gives a beautifully balanced, precise wine with marvellous purity of fruit and a long crisp finish’ (Norman & Taylor, Great Domaines of Burgundy). Grapes are hand-picked and sorted, then gently pressed, settled and transferred to barrels for natural fermentation followed by 18 months maturation in Tronçais and Allier oak, one-third new. The final wine is a selection of the best barrels.
Jean Noel Gagnard handed his eponymous Domaine to his daughter Caroline Lestimé in 1989. She had studied business in Paris, before returning to the village to take over the reins of the family estate, and had to handle male chauvinism at its most rampant. Nonetheless, she has followed her own convictions, and enhanced (rather than diminished) the reputation of this fine producer. In the vineyard, she uses no fertilisers or herbicides, but has not taken hold of the biodynamic bible.- James Halliday
The 2015 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets has a more backward and austere bouquet, perhaps the one closest to 2014 in style – fine mineralité here. The palate is well balanced with touches of white peach, lemongrass and citrus peel. I like the energy and poise here, and it should drink well for 8-10 years. 90-92 points, Wine Advocate (12/2016).
Reduced but inviting aromas of ripe pear and spices. Very rich and fat, but more classically dry than the Chaumées, offering more complexity to its musky peach, pear and spice flavours. Finishes with a slight dry edge but has good supporting stuffing. 89-92 points, Vinous (9/2016).
…there is a succulent yet more sophisticated mouthfeel to the more evidently mineral-driven flavours that possess a highly seductive mouthfeel thanks to the copious amount of dry extract that coats the palate while buffering the moderately firm acid spine shaping the balanced and beautifully persistent finish… this is going to require close to a decade to arrive at its full peak. 91-93 points, Burghound (6/2017).
The Domaine has 1.06 hectares of Les Caillerets, by far the largest of its 11 Premier Crus, and substantial in the context of White Burgundy. Happily, this wine is also the best by some distance of the three siblings. It is at once juicy and smooth, textured and minerally. It has a marked purity to its fruit (grapefruit and pith), the finish long and crisp. Drink 2019-2025.
96 points, James Halliday
Hazelnut, pear and white peach, a little mint and exotic spice. Moving to full-bodied with juicy white fruits, but has a savoury edge too – in particular that hazelnut thing – and an almost grippy texture, balanced cool acidity, and a generously flavoured finish closing with a little warmth, a crunch of tannin, yet doesn’t lack that stony ‘mineral’ feel that many a Burgundy fancier will cherish. It’s a beautiful thing.
95 points, Gary Walsh.
Medium straw colour. Plenty of fruit weight on the nose, veering towards the heavy. Spicy notes too. Good rich fruit on the palate but not top heavy, there is considerable class in here and the spice adds rather than detracts. One of the riper wines and therefore a bit clumsy at this stage.
90 points, InsideBurgundy.com (September 2018)
A complex bouquet of pear, preserved lemon, tangerine oil and new oak vanillin introduces a powerful, concentrated palate that demonstrates lovely grip and minerality on the penetrating finish.
91 points, Decanter
The whites are full-bodied, powerful, and fat, with aromas of almonds (green or toasted, depending on the age of the wine), ripe apples, white flowers, and honey, The finish is remarkably long.
The reds are deeply colored, full-bodied, and often quite fleshy, with classic aroma of cherry or kirsch and blackcurrant. Their firm structure is reminiscent of a wine from the Côte de Nuits.