One of the very greatest estates of Bordeaux, Château Mouton Rothschild is in the commune of Pauillac in the Haut-Medoc, 50km north-west of the city of Bordeaux. Its Château wine or ‘grand vin’ is among the world’s most highly-rated and expensive. Excluded from the highest rank (Premier Cru or First Growth) of the famous Bordeaux Classification of 1855, Mouton was finally promoted in 1973 after decades of lobbying by Baron Philippe de Rothschild, who ran the estate from 1922 until his death in 1988. Mouton was first in the region to bottle at the estate, rather than shipping its wine to merchants for bottling elsewhere.
Since 1924 artists including Braque, Dali, Picasso, Henry Moore, Miro, Chagall, Kandinsky, Andy Warhol, Francis Bacon, David Hockney and Lucian Freud have been commissioned to produce artworks for the Mouton label. Mouton, uniquely among the First Growths, remains in the hands of the same family as it was at the time of the 1855 Classification. The vineyards are on slopes with gravel-based soils leading down to the Gironde estuary and total 75ha – 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot. The Château wine is (unusually) fermented in large oak vats and then matured in new oak barrels for between 19 and 22 months. Total production of the ‘grand vin’ is 20,000 dozen or less. There is a ‘second wine’, Le Petit Mouton, established in 1993. The ‘grand vin’ is noted for its flamboyance – exotic, powerful aromas of cassis, minerals, tobacco leaf and graphite, an opulent palate and impressive length of flavour.
Deep crimson. Rich, powerfully concentrated and vivacious wine with ripe cassis, nutmeg and mocha aromas. The palate is densely packed with sweet blackcurrant fruit, mocha oak notes and plush, velvety tannins. Finishes long and cedary. This is classical, sumptuous Mouton with tremendous fruit definition and energy. 2025-2040. 94-97 points, Langton's.
The 2005 Mouton-Rothschild has developed magnificently, and is even better than I remember. The final blend was 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc. Stunning notes of crème de cassis, melted asphalt, roasted espresso and cedarwood are present in this young, full-bodied, powerful, concentrated Mouton. Just beginning to enter its adolescence, it should hit full maturity in 10-15 years and last for 50 or more. The greatness of this vintage is increasingly apparent as the wines throw off their cloaks of tannin. Drink 2024-2065. 99+ points, Wine Advocate (12/2014).
The Château Mouton-Rothschild 2005 has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with very pure blackberry and wild strawberry scents, mint and a touch of undergrowth and with time a little menthol. The palate is medium-bodied with red berry fruit, allspice, dried orange peel and even a hint of garrigue towards the finish. It feels just a step or two more advanced than the other First Growths but it remains a fantastic Mouton from Philippe Dhalluin. Ignore at your peril. Drink 2020-2055. 97 points, Wine Advocate (2/2015).
This accelerates on the palate with incredibly ripe tannins and finesse. Full body, roasted fruit, leather and grilled meat. Dried flowers, too. It shows superb tannin backbone and polish. Tight and youthful. Just starting to open. Currant and berry undertones with lead pencil are impressive. Better in 2018 but so delicious now. 98 points, jamessuckling.com (10/2015)
Racy and lively on the nose. Some freshness and great readability. Sweet and not too complex. Easy to like. Complete. Some inkiness but great fruit too. Excellent finish. Drink 2020-2045. 18.5/20 points, jancisrobinson.com (3/2017).
Black-red colour, exotic spicy aromas, black chocolate and coffee bean, explosive fruit, lush and very seductive but packs power as well, very sophisticated and exciting wine, classic Mouton. Drink 2015-45. 19/20 points, Steven Spurrier (4/2006).
Monster nose. Black, powerful and ultra-serious. Sensational. A touch of exotic coconut, then WOW! Stacked with dense, ripe fruit. Perfect. Drink from 2020. 5 stars & 18.5/20 points (7/2008).
Explosive, super-ripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There's an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavours. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. 95 points, International Wine Cellar (6/2008).
Pauillac is Bordeaux’s most acclaimed appellation, the only one with three Premier Cru properties: Château Lafite-Rothschild, Château Mouton-Rothschild and Château Latour. These and other Pauillac chateaux produce robust, full-flavored and long-lived red wines made from Cabernet-based blends. Though winemaking techniques and microclimates vary throughout Pauillac, producing some variations in style, classic Pauillac wines have juicy flavours of blackcurrant and cedar, often with coffee, chocolate and graphite notes. Pauillac, part of the Médoc region on Bordeaux’s Left Bank, has gravelly and well-drained soils that force vines to grow long and strong roots. Struggling a bit for water, the vines produce grapes with high tannins and concentrated juices. Nearby rivers and the Atlantic Ocean modulate temperatures, preventing the grapes from ripening too quickly. Such grapes make powerful wines that may age and improve for decades. However, in Pauillac, as in other old-world wine regions, some winemakers are working to develop softer red wines that maintain the local wines’ traditional substance and flavours, but are more approachable immediately upon release.