The 2014 Clos de la Roche Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru has a corker of a nose: here, a rush of raspberry and Morello cherry infused with limestone and flint aromas. The palate is stately, regal, with filigree tannin and a beguiling sense of symmetry. It bides its time in the mouth before fanning out with effortless ease. This is a fabulous, vivacious Clos de la Roche.
(95 - 97) points, Neal Martin (December 2015)
Diversity is to be expected as each Grand Cru has its own personality. To the eye, this wine is plain ruby, sometimes a bit darker. Veiled in strawberry and violet, the Clos de Tart offers both robustness and charm. Quite tannic when young, it softens with age while gaining in complexity. The Clos des Lambrays is a true aristocrat, fully rounded in youth and with added depth and gravity as the years go by. The Clos Saint-Denis impresses by its finely-tuned nuances – this wine is the Mozart of the Côte de Nuits. The Clos de la Roche is firmer, deeper and more serious, closely akin to Chambertin. Aromas of humus and truffle are often precursors to notes of small red or black fruits. A small part of the Bonnes-Mares appellation lies in this commune, but the greater part is in Chambolle-Musigny.
Domaine Ponsot is rich in history. It was one of the very first domaines in Burgundy to bottle its own wines (in the 1870s) and to begin selling wines under its own label (in the 1930s).
Clonal selection of pinot noir also began here. Ponsot provided the ‘mother plants’ from ancient Clos de la Roche vines for the first approved Burgundy clones – all of the so-called Dijon clones were taken from Ponsot cuttings in the Clos de la Roche.
Ponsot has fabulous holdings including perfectly situated parcels of very old vines (100+ years) in Clos St Denis and Clos de la Roche, where Ponsot is the largest land owner with 3.4ha – some three-quarters of the original vineyard.
There are smaller holdings in Chambertin, Griotte Chambertin, Chapelle Chambertin, Clos de Bèze, Charmes Chambertin, Clos de Vougeot, Corton, Corton Bressandes, Corton Charlemagne, le Montrachet, Chambolle Musigny 1er cru Les Charmes, and Morey 1er cru Clos de la Monts Luisants (white and red). There is also some Bourgogne rouge and superb village wines from Morey, Gevrey and Chambolle.