"The 2014 Clos de la Roche Grand Cru, from 0.32 hectares of vines planted in 1950 and 1951, has a much more generous bouquet compared to the Chambolle-Amoureuses, tensile red cherry and raspberry coulis scents, wet limestone and just a hint of cassis in the background. It is very Clos de la Roche, to put it prosaically. The palate is very harmonious, silky smooth and elegant. There is fine weight in the mouth, though this is more about tension and elegance, with a gorgeous, sensual, satin-like touch to the finish. This could become one of the best wines from this vineyard." 94-96 Neal Martin
Diversity is to be expected as each Grand Cru has its own personality. To the eye, this wine is plain ruby, sometimes a bit darker. Veiled in strawberry and violet, the Clos de Tart offers both robustness and charm. Quite tannic when young, it softens with age while gaining in complexity. The Clos des Lambrays is a true aristocrat, fully rounded in youth and with added depth and gravity as the years go by. The Clos Saint-Denis impresses by its finely-tuned nuances – this wine is the Mozart of the Côte de Nuits. The Clos de la Roche is firmer, deeper and more serious, closely akin to Chambertin. Aromas of humus and truffle are often precursors to notes of small red or black fruits. A small part of the Bonnes-Mares appellation lies in this commune, but the greater part is in Chambolle-Musigny.
Domaine de la Pousse d’Or was established in the commune of Volnay in 1964 by a consortium including Louis Seysses (the father of Jacques Seysses of Domaine Dujac) and Gerard Potel, though it can trace its lineage back to the Dukes of Burgundy in 1100. Pousse d'Or has enjoyed a strong following in Australia, because two groups of Australians including Moss Wood founder Bill Pannell and the late David Clarke AO, of Poole’s Rock and Macquarie Bank were involved as shareholders during the 80s and 90s.
Sadly, Gerard Potel, who is still revered in Burgundy, died in 1997 and the Australian shareholders sold the domaine to Patrick Landanger, an industrialist who made his fortune manufacturing surgical and orthopaedic instruments. Over the last twenty years, Landanger has expanded the domaine from 13ha to nearly 19ha having acquired nearly 2ha of Corton rouge grand crus in 1998, 0.73ha of Puligny-Montrachet Caillerets in 2004 and, most importantly, Landanger purchased the 3.5 ha Moine-Hudelot estate in Chambolle which included some Les Amoureuses Bonnes Mares.
With its state of the art, gravity fed winery, the introduction of Italian amphora for three of the Volnay premier crus, and with his son, Benoît, now calling the shots, this important domaine is firing on all cylinders.