This 2ha terraced vineyard, planted in 1974, lies immediately above Clos de Tart and is farmed organically (though not certified). The grapes are cold-macerated briefly before whole-bunch fermentation followed by one year of maturation on fine lees in oak barrels (20%-30% new). The wine is settled in tank before light filtration and bottling.
(I tasted a pre-bottling sample from tank, as this wine was scheduled to be bottled the evening of my January visit; vinified with 60% whole clusters): Bright medium red. Darker but more withdrawn on the nose than the old-vines Chambolle, hinting at black cherry, licorice and soil. Quite rich, displaying captivating sucrosité (these vines were picked first) but also lovely punch for a wine with 13.2% natural alcohol. Spreads out nicely to dust the palate on the savory finish.
(89-90) points, Vinous (January 2018)
The 2016 Morey-Saint-Denis En La Rue de Vergy includes 50% whole-bunch fruit this year. It has a well-defined bouquet, darker berry fruit, earthier than say Bruno Clair’s own La Rue de Vergy, but it gains vigor in the glass. The palate is sharp and bright on the entry. I like the tannins here—very fine, slightly chalky with impressive mineralité and harmony on the black tea-tinged finish. It is not a deep or powerful Morey, but it feels long and terroir expressive.
(90-92) points, Wine Advocate (December 2017)
Black cherry and leather on the nose – this is the dark, savoury side of Pinot. Finely ground tannins makes this drinkable now, although that compact fruit will surely give greater complexity with time.
17+ points, JancisRobinson.com (August 2018)
Sitting between Gevrey-Chambertin and Chambolle-Musigny, this little appellation can sometimes get a little lost in between. Although, not because of their quality - the wines are a perfect bridge between Gevrey-Chambertin (for structure and tannins) and Chambolle-Musigny (with elegance and velvetiness).
The appellation contains 4 main Grand Crus (5 if you include a small portion of Bonnes Mares which it shares with Chambolle-Musigny) including the Clos de la Roche.
The wines of Morey-Saint-Denis join the soft delicacy of Chambolle, its neighbor to the south, with the power and structure of Gevrey Chambertin, to the north. They are rather deeply coloured, with a powerful bouquet of small red and black fruits (pin cherry, blackcurrant). The crus of Morey-Saint-Denis are more complex, with woodsy, spicy, and animal aromas. They are full bodied and fleshy, often with a very long finish.
