Power packed Volnay here, from a parcel of 20-year-old vines, in with the 60-70 year-old ones. Dark cherry, blackberry, exotic spices, earthy too, almost pushing at licorice in its darkness and intensity of flavour. Medium to full-bodied, savoury and rugged, yet full of black and purple fruit, earthy and suede-like tannin, and a bold finish with good freshness, almost peaty flavours, and more tannin. Needs a bit of time and taming, but has robust appeal and no shortage of power. 94+ points, Wine Front (12/2017).
'Nowadays it is rare that I cannot find a domaine since I spend so much time in Burgundy. However, locating Nicolas Rossignol's new facility on the outskirts of Beaune was hampered by a rebellious Satnav and an illogical address numbering system. In the end, I just parked the car, called Nicolas and ordered: "Find me". Find me he did. About 20-metres away. He was previously cohabiting with Benjamin Leroux, renting part of his winery near to Albert Bichot, however with Leroux's own expansion things were getting cosy. Nicolas's new winery is an impressive facility with an extremely capacious barrel cellar, enabling him to easily stack the barrels five tiers high, not that it is necessary given the shortfall of juice in 2016. They were still moving in. Glancing down I viewed a photocopying machine being wheeled across the car-park. Nicolas told me that the last barrels were moved in the previous week at the end of November. We settled down and embarked upon tasting the 2015s. "It was an easy vintage," Nicolas told me with a Gallic shrug. Everything was perfect from the beginning to the end. When we had rain, we had rain. When we had sun, we had sun. We didn't have water stress. We just sprayed 5 times during the season. We picked from 3 September and finished on 12 September. The yields were around 30hl/ha, the stress of 3 years of hail reducing the yield on the older vines to around 20hl/ha. The cuvaison was just over 2 weeks, 15-17 days. I don't do any cold maceration so it takes time to start with natural yeasts, but after a couple of days the fermenting starts. I just pump one time at the beginning to blend in the SO2. I prefer to taste the must in the second half of the maceration to make decisions. It is more like infusion with one or two pumping at the end, but the tannins and color came easily." I found his 2015s to be split into two. There were some crus, for example the Pommard 1er Cru Les Argillières that I feel are flirting with over-ripeness and I detected some prune-like elements on the nose, more so than on the palates. This was confirmed by other crus such as the Beaune 1er Cru Les Reversées, whereby Nicolas nailed it and conjured fresh, vibrant, shimmering wines that really expressed their terroirs. So it is a case here of picking carefully and I will be intrigued to see if those traits of over-ripeness are translated into bottle.'
91-93 points, Neal Martin, robertparker.com
One of the firmer, more masculine wines in the cellar, the brooding bouquet opens with notes of cassis, dark plum, rich soil and graphite, the prelude to a taut palate with a substantial chassis of tannin and acidity. A vin de garde that will need a dozen years in the cellar. Drink 2018-2065. 93 points, William Kelley (2017).