According to winemaker Valter Fissore—husband of Elvio Cogno’s daughter Nadia—, this plot is ‘the heart and soul’ of the mighty Ravera cru. Exposed due south to the full brunt of afternoon light, Bricco Pernice is also protected from the wind. This dynamic conspires to create a mesoclimate considerably warmer than the rest of the cru. White soils heavy in solid limestone service strapping wines that are ferrous, pungently mineral, brooding and evocative of truffles, macerated cherry, liquorice, leather and iodine. As with Vigna Elena, these are candidates for long ageing, seeing three-years in botti for tone and poise.
Forest floor, dried rose petal, new leather, star anise and menthol aromas align with a potpourri of dark cooking spice. The full-bodied yet linear palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed strawberry, licorice and aromatic herb set against taut, elegant tannins. Vibrant acidity lends balance, tension and an ageworthy structure.
97 points, Wine Enthusiast (November 2018)
The 2013 Barolo Ravera Bricco Pernice is a true protagonist of this gorgeous vineyard site. A bright green canopy extends right up to the Elvio Cogno farmhouse on a gentle slope that rises upward all the way to the Novello ridge. Ravera sits in a beautiful amphitheater of vines. From a classic vintage, this wine is solid and firm in texture. The bouquet is already expressive, immediate and direct. It is bursting with dark fruit, smoke, spice and licorice. This Barolo shows all the qualities that will guarantee a long and successful cellar evolution. Only 4,000 bottles were made. The wine sees a 40-day fermentation and maceration time with submerged caps. It is aged in large Slavonian oak casks for 30 months.
96+ points, Wine Advocate (September 2018)
Despite its medium-bodied, classic feel, the 2013 Barolo Bricco Pernice is a deep wine endowed with multiple layers of nuance that will only emerge with considerable time in bottle. Even so, the wine's beauty and pedigree are evident. The 2013 vintage produced a classically austere Bricco Pernice built on structure, acid and tannin. Time in the glass reveals some of the floral, savory and spice notes that are laced into the red cherry and blood orange. Even so, the 2013 remains quite dark and massively tannic. Bottles are best forgotten about for at least another handful of years, or even more.
96 points, Vinous (February 2018)
This is a refined and extremely long red with black cherries and dried strawberries. Some roses, too. Full body and ultra-polished, refined tannins. Late release.
95 points, JamesSuckling.com (January 2018)
Grounded by a beam of pure cherry, this red is wrapped in an embrace of dense, finely wrought tannins. Shows a licorice chewiness, along with sage and sandalwood notes that linger on the fresh aftertaste.
94 points, Wine Spectator (December 2018)
Over the last several vintages the estate of Elvio Cogno has unequivocally thrust
itself into the pantheon of top Barolo makers. Following extensive experience at the Marcarini estate in la Morra, which Cogno co-founded with Giuseppe Marcarini, Cogno returned to his hometown of Novello in 1991, one of the Barolo zone’s eleven villages. Marcarini’s passing and the commercial approach of his grandchildren, the inheritors, left Cogno feeling rudderless. Cogno’s new mission was simple: to revive the most important estate in the town’s greatest–Ravera!
To say that Cogno succeeded is an understatement.
The estate is comprised of eleven hectares, producing 37,000 bottles annually. It is situated right in the middle of the Ravera cru, propitiously facing south-south-east at 380 metres above sea level. Friable calcareous chinks segue to prized solid limestone. Each Cogno wine hails from Ravera with vine age, parcel, soil structures and clonal makeups differentiating them. And what wines!
Cogno is as noteworthy for the eponymous Barolo Ravera as for the brisk Barolo Cascina Nuova, hewn of younger vine material. Yet it is often the Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena, crafted with the rare Nebbiolo sub-variety Rosé from a sandier plot, that blows minds! The Cogno estate is as daring as it is consistently excellent.
The estate is now run by Elvio’s daughter Nadia and son-in-law Valter Fissore. Fissore learned the ropes under Elvio, the master. Following a flirtation with modernity, Fissore has come to embrace a traditional gait incorporating a return to large Slavonian casks and ambient fermentations using the hallowed submerged cap technique, all in the presence of impeccably ripe fruit to facilitate noble tannins. Abstemious yields, attenuated macerations and minimal sulphur-dioxide as a means to encapsulate a culture of organic viticulture, while expressing the most prized plots of Ravera, are de rigeur.