A great introduction to the superb suite of Cogno Baroli, Montegrilli is an homage to Elvio Cogno’s grandfather. It differentiates itself from Barolo due to fermentation in stainless steel and no oak handling. This confers a mineral freshness while evincing a visceral, fruit-forward immediacy. Always red fruit scented with fecund strawberry notes and floral overtones, the undercarriage is, nevertheless, quintessential Nebbiolo: fibrous tannins, crunchy acidity and a whiff of sandalwood.
The 2017 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli is a very pretty wine. The warm, dry vintage has given Cogno's Nebbiolo an extra kick of richness, but without robbing the wine of its personality. Sweet dried cherry, mint, tobacco, crushed flowers and anise all flesh out in an expansive, inviting Nebbiolo that will drink nicely for at least a number of years.
91 points, Vinous (May 2019)
Strawberry jam, white pepper and floral notes mark this linear red. Pliable enough to enjoy now, yet has the structure to last over the short term.
88 points, Wine Spectator (2019)
Here is one of the first, advance tastes you can get of Nebbiolo from this hot and dry vintage that created challenging growing conditions for vintners across the Langhe. The team at Elvio Cogno shows a deft hand with the 2017 Langhe Nebbiolo Montegrilli. This is a lean red wine with a beautifully brilliant appearance that is tinged with shades of ruby and polished copper. The bouquet is slightly muted and you don't get that absolute precision that Nebbiolo awards in the cooler years. The mouthfeel shows richness coupled with higher and crisper acidity than I would have expected.
88 points, Wine Advocate (September 2018)
Over the last several vintages the estate of Elvio Cogno has unequivocally thrust
itself into the pantheon of top Barolo makers. Following extensive experience at the Marcarini estate in la Morra, which Cogno co-founded with Giuseppe Marcarini, Cogno returned to his hometown of Novello in 1991, one of the Barolo zone’s eleven villages. Marcarini’s passing and the commercial approach of his grandchildren, the inheritors, left Cogno feeling rudderless. Cogno’s new mission was simple: to revive the most important estate in the town’s greatest–Ravera!
To say that Cogno succeeded is an understatement.
The estate is comprised of eleven hectares, producing 37,000 bottles annually. It is situated right in the middle of the Ravera cru, propitiously facing south-south-east at 380 metres above sea level. Friable calcareous chinks segue to prized solid limestone. Each Cogno wine hails from Ravera with vine age, parcel, soil structures and clonal makeups differentiating them. And what wines!
Cogno is as noteworthy for the eponymous Barolo Ravera as for the brisk Barolo Cascina Nuova, hewn of younger vine material. Yet it is often the Barolo Riserva Vigna Elena, crafted with the rare Nebbiolo sub-variety Rosé from a sandier plot, that blows minds! The Cogno estate is as daring as it is consistently excellent.
The estate is now run by Elvio’s daughter Nadia and son-in-law Valter Fissore. Fissore learned the ropes under Elvio, the master. Following a flirtation with modernity, Fissore has come to embrace a traditional gait incorporating a return to large Slavonian casks and ambient fermentations using the hallowed submerged cap technique, all in the presence of impeccably ripe fruit to facilitate noble tannins. Abstemious yields, attenuated macerations and minimal sulphur-dioxide as a means to encapsulate a culture of organic viticulture, while expressing the most prized plots of Ravera, are de rigeur.