Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, wild-fermented in French oak (20% new), matured for nine months in oak followed by six months in tank. Tasmanian Chardonnays don't always develop well, but this one will do so with ease. Chatto has managed to make a wine of exceptional intensity and length, its flavours midway between grapefruit and stone fruit, oak a bystander. Drink to 2028. 96 points, Wine Companion (1/2018).
Mania is a joint venture between Jim Chatto and Nicholas Crampton, both of whom have a great many fingers in a great many pies, and both of whom manage (somehow) to consistently produce fantastic wines. According to Jim Chatto “Fruit comes from the old Iron Pot Bay vineyard in northern Tassie. My link to this vineyard goes back to late nineties when I made the wines for the original owner Rod Cuthbert. More recently it has gone to McWilliam’s for Last Horizon. They don’t make the Chardonnay any more so Crampo and I took it on.” Well. Does it get boring if I simply say that They’ve Done It Again? This is a sophisticated Chardonnay, ripped with flint, woodsmoke, meal and toast, its core of grapefruit, slate, white peach and crushed fennel providing both the drive and the substance. It’s all wound up, like one of those rubber-band toy cars of old, but it still manages to push appreciably through the finish and, I dare say, more is to come as it matures. 94 points, Wine Front.