The wine comes from a gently sloping 0.36ha (under one acre) plot on the Chassagne side, just below Montrachet, with excellent exposure to the south and south-east. The grapes are hand-picked and sorted, then gently pressed and settled for 24-48 hours. Fermentation takes place naturally in barrels at cellar temperature (18°C) and maturation continues in underground cellars at 10-12°C. The wine ages on lees in 228-litre Tronçais and Allier oak, 80% new, for a total of 18 months. The final blend is made from barrels selected after the final racking. The wine is lightly filtered and bottled at the Domaine.
Jean Noel Gagnard handed his eponymous Domaine to his daughter Caroline Lestimé in 1989. She had studied business in Paris, before returning to the village to take over the reins of the family estate, and had to handle male chauvinism at its most rampant. Nonetheless, she has followed her own convictions, and enhanced (rather than diminished) the reputation of this fine producer. In the vineyard, she uses no fertilisers or herbicides, but has not taken hold of the biodynamic bible. - James Halliday
Unsurprisingly located on the Chassagne side of the grand cru, given that Caroline Lestimé's cellar is situated there too, this is one of the white wines of the vintage from a domaine that has excelled in 2017. Yields were tiny at 15hl/ha, but this isn't an overly assertive wine. It's sappy, floral and hauntingly poised, with beeswax, citrus and pear flavours, a hint of orange zest and stylishly integrated 50% new wood.
97 points, Decanter, November 2018.
The 2017 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru is very promising, offering up a lovely but youthfully reserved bouquet of crisp orchard fruit, vine blossom, honeysuckle, mandarin and pastry cream. On the palate, the wine is full-bodied, broad and ample, with a glossy, textural attack, good depth at the core, chewy extract and a gently oak-inflected finish. This is a very good Bâtard that exemplifies the house style.
93+ points, Wine Advocate, May 2019.
Like the Petits Clos there is a touch of the exotic suffusing the potent nose of mandarin orange, white peach, olive oil and pretty floral nuances. The big-bodied, intense and powerful flavours possess a relatively refined mouth feel before terminating in a gorgeously long finale. This will also need to develop depth but the track record of the Gagnard Bâtard is so good that I have little doubt that much more will emerge with time in bottle.
93 points, Allen Meadows, burghound.com, June 2019.
Their colour is gold flecked with emerald, darkening towards yellow with age. Their bouquet evokes butter and warm croissants, bracken, dried fruit, spices and honey. Body and bouquet are not separately distinguishable, so closely blended are structure and harmony into a single perfect whole. Unctuous and firm, dry and caressing, enveloped and profound, these wines combine every virtue in a firmly-established personality.