Domaine Henri Magnien Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier
A relatively new cuvée, 2013 the first vintage of this wine. Situated close to Chambertin, Clos de Beze and Mazis-Chambertin, this vineyard is planted to old vines and Henri Magnien makes a mere 1200 bottles made. Champerrier has unusually rocky soils for Gevrey-Chambertin and this is evident in the wine with its minerality and elegance in with all that usual tannic structure.>
There is a touch more whole bunch usage here thanks to the age of the vines, 60 plus. A certain amount of rumbustious red fruit here. Plenty of energy-dense fruit on the cusp of red and black, good acidity. Plenty in reserve here, for longer ageing.
91 points, Jasper Morris MW.
The 2017 Gevrey-Chambertin Champerrier reveals aromas of dark berry fruit, cassis, bay leaf and rich soil tones, subtly framed by a touch of new wood. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, fine-boned and quite tensile at the core, with promising energy and persistence.
88-90 points, William Kelley, Wine Advocate, February 2019.
Rich and polished and rather well balanced and attractive. Lots of integrity and future. Very firm. Good freshness.
17 points, Julia Harding MW, jancisrobinson.com, January 2019.
“For fifteen years the Emperor [Napoleon] constantly drank the same wine [Gevrey-Chambertin] , which he liked and which we believed was good for him."
Mémorial de Sainte-Hélène by The Count of Las Cases
Gevrey-Chambertin is the largest wine-producing village in the entire Côte d’Or with the wines typically deeper in colour, with more tannin structure and firmer in body than most red Burgundy. Thanks to the iron-rich clay soils the very best can develop into the richest, biggest and long-lived Pinot Noir - this of course depends on whether the vineyard is located on the steeper slopes or the flatter, richer soils.
Gevrey boasts an impressive nine Grands Crus, with the name of Chambertin retaining a regal omnipresence throughout its finest vineyard names. Chambertin-Clos de Bèze which has the right to sell its wines simply as ‘Chambertin’, and is also the only wine allowed to put the ‘Chambertin’ before (rather than after its own), is considered one of the greats. Quality-wise the next best is generally acknowledged to be Mazis-Chambertin with incredibly concentrated and fine wines, but a little less firm than Le Chambertin. The tiny Griottes-Chambertin, which owes its name to the grill-pan shape of the vineyard rather than the wine’s griotte (sour) cherry aroma, is lower down the slope and boasts a velvety texture and rich fruit reminiscent of Chambertin itself. Gevrey’s largest Grand Cru, Charmes-Chambertin is pure and seductive.
The wines of Gevrey-Chambertin are deeply colored. They have intense aromas of currants and other small red and black fruits, animal notes of musk and fur, and often a touch of licorice after some bottle aging. They are powerful, with balanced tannins, a soft mouthfeel and good acidity. These are generally robust wines.
While the Magnien family has been operating in Burgundy since the mid-1600s, Domaine Henri Magnien et Fils was established in 1987 by Henri for himself, his son François and his grandson Charles. After working side-by-side with his father, Charles took the reins in 2009 and is now considered to be in the vanguard of the young, energetic winemakers in the Gevrey-Chambertin and the Côte de Nuits.
Domaine Henri Magnien is a small family-owned and run estate of a mere six hectares of vineyard holdings. What they lack in hectarage they make up for in undoubted Gevrey-Chambertin quality. The Magnien family’s inexorable march to organic viticulture has been going for years with around 80% already complete. Charles, considered to be one of Burgundy’s rising stars, employs Selection Massale, or Massal Selection, to plant his more recent vineyards with cutting selections made from 70 to 100-year-old vines. These clonal selections are known as Pinot Magnien (the family has been around for a while) and are widely considered to be the best in the appellation. They are much sought-after and used by the likes of Jérôme Galeyrand.
The Domaine also has many of the very best vineyards, including Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Les Cazetiers and Ruchottes-Chambertin.