Grüner Silvaner, or just Silvaner, was once the most planted variety in Germany. Today, it doesn’t even rank in the top five. It currently sits in sixth position behind Riesling, Müller-Thurgau, Spätburgunder (Pinot Noir), Dornfelder and Grauburgunder (Pinot Gris).
Klaus-Peter Keller’s Trocken Grüner Silvaner makes a good argument for the wine to move up a rung or two. As with any Keller wine, there is purity and typicity.
The fruit is sourced from Keller’s GG (Grosses Gewächs, or Grand Cru) vineyards in Bürgel in the village of Dalsheim in Rheinhessen. This classic terroir is very well sheltered and sits in a south-facing position. The highly permeated Terra Fusca soils contain high levels of lime, giving the wine that characteristic minerality and mouthwatering acidity.
Situated to the north of Nieder-Flörsheim, Flörsheim-Dalsheim (in the municipality of Dalsheim Bürgel) is located in the south-west of Germany near the border with Alsace.
"Bottled. 35-year-old vines from the Steingrube and Bürgel vineyards – so-called 'younger vines', at least compared with those for Feuervogel.
Very pale. A shock to the system after the Spätburgunders. Has an intense grassy freshness, steely citrus. Juicy, scented on the palate, delicate and beautifully fresh. Only the merest hint of Silvaner’s earthy character – more of an almond-like quality that reminds me of some northern Italian whites. Zesty and full of citrus green-fruited energy. Persistent and mouth-watering. Precise, clean-cut but not simple."
16.5 points, jancisrobinson.com (March 2019)
"Pretty much never a bad wine from Keller, at all price points, and no change here. It’s a wine of interest and personality. It’s flecked with pleasant green herb things lending perfume, kohlrabi or daikon, juicy lemon drizzled green pear, and aniseed too. Mouth-watering acidity, a precise feel and understated fruitiness, quartz-like texture, saline and brisk through the finish. Racy and so worthy. It makes me feel like eating Yum Cha."
93 points, The Wine Front (September 2019)