To achieve this, the grapes are hand-harvested from 1997 planted Syrah. The fruit—of which about half is whole-bunch—is sorted, then gravity-fed into a vat and a brace of 600L demi-muids, all French oak. Wild fermentation follows and this is evidenced in the structure, complexity and aromatic nature of the wine. There is a week and a half of time spent on skins after which the wine is basket pressed directly into large format French oak, about a third new. With just a pinch of sulphites, the unfined wine is given a little filter and is then ready for bottling.
"Savoury elements strike out from the bouquet, lees-yeasty-bready notes mingle with citrus, strong lime actually, and a whiff of appley things. Juiciness curtailed by oyster-shell-like-mineral veins, a sheath of grippy chalkiness, great length, piercing acidity (almost a quibble as not quite integrated, but fresh, indeed, the finish is crackling with tart, striking, sour lemon tang). Bone dry vibes too. Nicely done, and will make the acid hounds mouth water, yet deliver complexity to the detail fetishists. Super."
93+ points, The Wine Front (November 2019)
"Ample flavour but straight and long. Apple and lime, grapefruit and grip, but oh so persistent. Dry, elongated style with a big motor of fruit. Swinney is flying."
94 points, The Wine Front (October 2019)
"Pale green-yellow hue, the bouquet exceptionally fragrant, with high-toned citrus pith and citrus juice aromatics. A suggestion of gardenia. The wine is superbly intense and refined, mouth-watering acidity cleansing the finish beautifully. There is a faint trace of grip and the wine is remarkarbly juicy despite having no residual sugar. A beautiful young riesling with a bright future."
96 points, The Real Review (August 2019)
"Riesling is a key grape variety of Frankland River, along with Shiraz. Vines planted 1997/98. Residual sugar 0.6 g/l. TA 7.5 g/l. For this label, fruit is sourced from the side of the vines that gets the morning sun.
Light, lively fresh herbal nose, very different from the talcum-powder-like norm. Bone dry and juicy with lots of lime. Good fruit and acid balance."
17 points, jancisrobinson.com (September 2019)
"Linear and focused, with pristine lime, lemon and green apple skin flavour extending long and pithy towards a lingering bone-dry finish."
95 points, jeremyoliver.com.au (August 2019)
The intensity of the citrus fruit, with grapefruit swimming beside lime, builds before the acid-based structure swings into play. It has that racy Frankland River flavour, and a brilliantly clean, mouthwatering finish.
96 points, Wine Companion (September 2019)