In this three-bottle vertical, you’ll receive one bottle each of the following Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 1er Cru Volnay-Santenots 2015 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 1er Cru Volnay-Santenots 2016 Domaine Nicolas Rossignol 1er Cru Volnay-Santenots 2017
The Santenots vineyard is among Volnay’s top-drawer sites. Among the Premier Crus, it is considered one of the top three together with Caillerets and Champans, endowed with the status of ‘Téte de Cuvée’ by ampelographers Lavalle (1855) and Rodier (1920). These sites are all situated to the south of the village, with Santenots lying in neighbouring Meursault despite the courtesy of remaining within the Volnay appellation due to it being a red wine and those from Meursault, white.
The heart of the vineyard is the 8.8 hectare sub-parcel of Les Santenots du Milieu which incorporates the prized 1.19 hectare microclimate, the Clos des Santenots.
With more ferrous clay than much of Volnay, the wines from Les Santenots reward patience due to a firm latticework of tannin and fruit on the richer side for the commune. The tannins, however, are marked by the filigreed signature of Volnay, rather than the heft of Pommard. This is apparent in Nicolas’ expressive wine which demands time in the cellar.
2015 is a vintage marked by scrumptious ripe fruit, given an accent of a redder spectrum in Volnay. 2016 meanwhile boasts a concentration and purity of fruit that finds an effortless confluence with Volnay’s hallmark finesse. The wines are not necessarily heady, but transparent and lacy with just enough fruit hanging off their structural bones. 2017 is an upfront flattering vintage, without the structure of ‘16, nor the jubilant fruit of ‘15. What it delivers, however, is lifted floral aromas, mellifluous transparency across sites and a delicious approachability that will reward mid-term cellaring.
"Power packed Volnay here, from a parcel of 20-year-old vines, in with the 60-70 year-old ones. Dark cherry, blackberry, exotic spices, earthy too, almost pushing at licorice in its darkness and intensity of flavour. Medium to full-bodied, savoury and rugged, yet full of black and purple fruit, earthy and suede-like tannin, and a bold finish with good freshness, almost peaty flavours, and more tannin. Needs a bit of time and taming, but has robust appeal and no shortage of power."
94+ points, Wine Front (December 2017)
"(just 12 barrels made from 2.1 hectares, compared to 51 in 2017): Deep, bright ruby-red. Huge, sappy aromas of kirsch and black raspberry are almost liqueur-like but maintain good energy. Incredibly thick yet tangy on entry, then densely packed and extremely concentrated, in more of a 2015 style. And yet the silky, very deep dark fruit and chocolate flavors avoid coming off as heavy. Offers an uncanny combination of solidity and lift. Rossignol told me he destemmed this wine from rocky, iron-rich soil because 'it's already massive and too powerful to vinify with stems.'"
(92-93) points, Vinous (January 2018)
"The 2017 Volnay 1er Cru Les Santenots is one of the richest, most powerful wines in the cellar this year, exhibiting aromas of smoked meats, plums, cassis and spices. On the palate, it's medium to full-bodied, dense and chewy, with an abundance of chalky structuring tannin and an expansive finish."
(90-92)+ points, Wine Advocate (January 2019)