...An unloved Cabernet, from a big bastard company... opened up and danced, like an old couple re-living the night of their lives in a just-lit dance hall on a Saturday. Blow me down. On Facebook at the moment I’m seeing lots of close-up photographs of exotic fungi. This wine didn’t taste like mushrooms, but it had that extra-sense to it, that point between horehound and mint, as if decay could blow a fresh new breath and be vital again. Pouring a glass was like the dawn of a new age, where the old tasted new; tobacco leaves from so long ago, smoked in oak and cured in blackcurrant and alcohol, had transformed into something only possible with the passing of time and the obliteration of prejudice… I can’t see the empty bottle of Mildara Cabernet Sauvignon 2004, which sits on my desk and will do for some time. It’s a reminder, of sorts. They tell you a lot of things. But beauty is rarely the hell where they tell you it is.
94 points, Wine Front, June 2018
CoonawarraThe first vines were planted in Coonawarra by John Riddoch in 1890, however it was not until the renewed interest in table wine production in the 1950's that Coonawarra was brought into the limelight. Located almost 380 km southeast of Adelaide, Coonawarra is today one of the most famous red wine regions in Australia. Its weathered limestone terra rossa soils, avaibility of water and relatively cool maritime climate make it a unique viticultural region. Extremely flat and unprotected, Coonawarra is exposed both to the swinging influences of the cool Great Southern Ocean and hot, dry northerly winds. Spring frosts also pose a major threat with the potential to wipe out entire crops. Mechanical harvesting is widely employed in the region although smaller producers prefer to tend their vines by hand. Coonawarra is best known for classically-styled Cabernet Sauvignon, although in good years, Shiraz from the region is also very compelling.