Penfolds Reserve Bin 20A is a cool-climate Chardonnay made from fruit sourced in the Adelaide Hills. The first vintage was in 1994, with the Reserve Bin A part of that new wave of Penfolds Bins that arrived in the mid 90s, including the multi-region Chardonnay Yattarna and the single region Shiraz RWT.
The Reserve Bin A takes its number from the vintage, slightly out of step with the Penfolds naming system. And that’s a good thing, as the Reserve Bin 20A is its own wine. It has plenty of Penfolds seriousness wrapped up in a white wine package that’s single-region and cool-climate specific.
These days, it’s a complex wine with Michelin patisserie chef level lemon meringue characters, and plenty of verve in its early years. Very expressive, pure and driven, the Reserve Bin A Chardonnay tends to spend more time on the palate than it does in the glass. The pale sunshine gold of Bin 20A beams warm and bright. A charmer from the hand of winemaker Kym Schroeter, this is a Chardonnay that makes its presence felt. It is ethereal, yet powerful. Rich in complexity, yet gloriously refreshing thanks to that fresh-struck match and mineral line. It has levity, it has length, it will keep us interested for many years to come.
Pale gold. Invitingly complex and ethereal wine with pure grapefruit, nectarine, pear skin aromas, grilled nut notes and plentiful slatey/flinty/ matchstick nuances. Generous, layered and mouth filling with grapefruit nectarine apricot grilled nut flavours, underlying vanilla oak notes, fine chalky/hint al dente textures, superb mid-palate volume and fresh long acidity. Wonderful balance, fruit definition and tension. Seal; screwcap Drink Now – 2028 12.5% alc
97 points (July 2021)
Matured 8 months in 86% new French oak barriques. The rise and rise in the refinement of Bin A has marked a magnificent trajectory in the modern era and 2020 meets the grand expectation with astonishing precision, determination and endurance. For all that this turbulent vintage brought to the Adelaide Hills (and to the world) there is a resolute conviction and assuredness to this wine that sets it apart among the greatest and longest-lived of all. A textbook exemplar of Kym Schroeter’s wizardry of uniting profound gunflint reduction, high-tensile white fruits and lightening acidity with uber-classy oak that exerts nothing like the presence expected of 86% new barrels. Brilliant, powder-fine mineral texture wraps every detail in seamless unity. For all that there is to astonish about this release, it is its monumental line and sheer, undeviating length that really set it apart.
98 points, Wine Companion (July 2021)
We see weight, we see power. This has presence and the length to match. There’s a commanding, dry, chalky extension to the finish; that prized ‘go again’ just when you think it’s about to end. Flint, grapegruit, stonefruit, flashy-but-integrated oak, a mineral-like edge, a fresh-torn fig. It’s a neat, composed wine and yet it’s detonated with flavour.
95 points, The Wine Front (July 2021)
Bright, light-yellow colour, gleaming in the glass. A very complex bouquet with matchstick overtones meshed with lightly toasted nuts, cashews especially, and note of smoked-chicken and a light shimmer of free SO2 hovering over it but not obscuring the aromas. Grapefruit and lemon are the fruit aromas and flavours. The palate is intense and refined, tightly-focused and tense, with excellent drive and length. (8 months in 86% new French oak)
95 points, The Real Review (June 2021)
Aromas of intense lemon and peach, as well as nectarine and flinty mineral nuances, alongside assertive oak. There’s depth and drive to the palate with vivid peach and nectarine flavors. Power with elegance. Drink or hold.
95 points, JamesSuckling.com (July 2021)
All fermentation takes place on solids, some juice direct from press to barrel for wild ferment; 100% mlf. This is transparently obvious in the extremely complex bouquet, palate and texture of grapefruit, white peach and fig. Magnificent line and length in world terms.
98 points, James Halliday's Top 100 Wines of 2021
ADELAIDE HILLSLocated to the east of Adelaide,the Adelaide Hills is part of the Mount Lofty Ranges. Considered a cool-climate region, most vineyards are situated at elevations between 450 to 550 metres. Rainfall is relatively high and spring frosts often pose problems. Hot northerly winds also make bush fires a real threat in the region. Adelaide Hills is a jigsaw of meso-climates, with the best vineyards centred around Piccadilly Valley and Lenswood in protected sites facing north or north-east. Soils are derived from schistic and sedimentary rock; typically well-drained sandy loams over red clay interspersed with schistic gravels. A premium wine-growing region, Adelaide Hills is best known for crisp, lively Sauvignon Blanc and elegant cool climates styles of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Shiraz.
Penfolds is probably the most extraordinary of the world’s wine brands with an enviable reputation for quality at every price level. The original Penfold was an English doctor who, in 1844, planted grapes at Magill, now a suburb of Adelaide. However, it was not until the late 1940s that Penfolds began to forge a reputation for red wine.
The Penfolds house style emerged from a fortified wine producing culture and evolved as a winemaking philosophy which has had a profound effect on the entire Australian wine industry. Many of the techniques initially adopted to make Penfolds Grange would become part of the wider Penfolds winemaking culture. The number of techniques employed in the research and development of Penfolds wines is astonishing. Max Schubert and his team pioneered: major advances in yeast technology and paper chromatography; the understanding and use of pH in controlling bacterial spoilage; the use of headed down/submerged cap fermentation and the technique of rack and return; cold fermentation practices; the use of American oak as a maturation vessel and perhaps most critically, partial barrel fermentation. Nowadays, the use of American oak and barrel fermentation for instance is considered traditional Barossa winemaking practice!
Today, Penfolds house style embraces the concept of multi-regional blending, optimum fruit quality, the use of fine-grained American or French oak, barrel fermentation and maturation. Overall, the Penfolds style is about highly-defined fruit aromas, fruit sweetness, ripe tannins, richness, power and concentration. The number of iconic wines that have emerged from the Penfolds stable over the years is remarkable. Bin 389 a Cabernet Shiraz blend released in 1960 is now considered the quintessential Australian wine blend. Bin 128 Coonawarra Shiraz and Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz released in 1962 pre-empted the contemporary enthusiasm for regional definition by about 25 years. Improved vineyard management, site selection and winemaking brought about subsequent releases of Bin 707 and Bin 407 Cabernet Sauvignon. The Penfolds Wine Making Philosophy is the accumulation of more than half-a-century of knowledge and winemaking practice initiated by Max Schubert and subsequently refined by Don Ditter, John Duval and Peter Gago. Their collective commitment to multi-regional and vineyard blending contributed to a consistency of style and quality that has cemented Penfolds reputation as the foremost producer of premium age-worthy red wines in Australia.