Langton's Magazine

Andrew Caillard

Langton's Classification
Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine is today widely regarded as an unofficial honour roll or form guide of Australia’s 101 finest wines. Printed in poster format (current Classification over 11,000 sold) it has become a symbol of Australian wine ingenuity, classicism and innovation. It is found across the world in the finest restaurants, wine stores and collector’s cellars to the most surprising places including wineries in France and Italy, bookshops in the US and bars in Japan, China and Singapore. It is also displayed in hundreds if not thousands of washrooms in every corner of the globe!

Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine has developed into an important benchmark listing. In many respects it has partially set the Australian fine wine agenda. Based on secondary market price data and sentiment and updated every five years it provides a meaningful and naked view of Australian fine wine. It transcends politics, individual opinion and marketing hyperbole. That’s why it has achieved such a strong stamp of credibility and authority.

The current 2005 Classification of Australian Wine IV was released in the same year as the 150th anniversary of the long established and famous 1855 Bordeaux Classification. Langton’s Classification Auction to be held in October 2008 will highlight the sheer depth, diversity and heritage of ultra-fine Australian wine. The wines and vintages reflect an evolution of wine making philosophy and new traditions. Langton’s 2005 Classification of Australian Wine IV shows a strong market interest in single vineyard wine and regional styles such as Barossa Shiraz, Clare Riesling, Margaret River Cabernet etc. Many of these wines are made with the idea that they will evolve with time in the cellar. If anything, potential longevity of ultra-fine Australian wine is on the ascendancy.

Langton’s was early to articulate the importance of identity, narrative and winemaking customs when promoting and marketing Australian fine wine auctions. Langton’s Classification lies at the very heart of our wine auction modus operandi. Without the stories, the remarkable people, the scent and voice of place Australian fine wine would not resonate profoundly nor capture the imagination of wine collectors and enthusiasts. We realised this earlier than the mainstream wine markets because of the seismic shift in supply, the nascent momentum of the boutique wine scene and the change in the buying habits of our auction subscribers. Langton’s was not an overnight success. It has taken 20 years to achieve a strong and meaningful market.

The official launch of Langton’s Classification in 1991 was meant to create debate. Over time it irritated and then provoked the custodians of the wine show system and the various nabobs of the fine wine market. It got quite unpleasant around 1996. Penfolds weren’t particularly happy about Henschke Hill of Grace and Mount Mary reaching the same level as Grange in Classification II. They agreed to disagree. However there were others who made their displeasure known and used their power to make the going tough. All the same Langton’s Classification began to play an influential role in the perceptions of Australian Fine Wine in a growing secondary market.

The release of Classification III in 2000 occurred at the zenith of the cult wine market. At that moment the rules of ten vintages made and a long track record seemed imperfectly tuned to the machinations of the market. In hindsight it showed how brilliantly these simple rules could separate the wheat from the chaff. The real performers have since stood the test of the auction market and become modern classics in their own right.

When the Classification was first released we made the decision to catalogue the wines according to their ratings. This was probably a touch over ambitious and certainly open to criticism when we first started. There were more than a few people who asked us what all this Exceptional and Outstanding stuff meant? Notwithstanding the various Classification auctions, I am certain this practice now in its eighteenth year and written against hundreds of thousands of listing kept the classification relevant and focussed. Its increasing prominence in the Australian fine wine market has opened Langton’s Classification to intense scrutiny and debate. Numerous tasting events have allowed wine critics to discuss and make their own observations. Some have argued that it 'sets the agenda of Australian fine wine.' Others have reacted by coming up with classifications of their own.

Langton’s has always published the Classification with qualification. Indeed we have always acknowledged that it cannot by its nature embrace the entire ultra-fine wine scene. For instance there are a number of very fine Australian wines – with strong reputations – which, by the rules of Langton’s Classification, cannot be included. The non-vintage Tokays and Muscats of Rutherglen are just one example. Further the Classification is skewed towards wines with a reputation for cellaring potential; many of them are reds. The Classification however sets out to reflect fine wine market’s performance. It highlights what is valued by collectors and wine enthusiasts.

In 2006, I was involved in the Australian Wine Industry’s 2025 Directions Taskforce and partially involved in the research and strategic positioning of Australian wine on the international market. Langton’s has played an ongoing role in promoting fine Australian wine around the world. The South Africa/Australia Wine Test Match in 1996, the Shiraz Australia Tastings in London, New York and Los Angeles in 1998 and a myriad of follow up tastings in Singapore, London. Hamburg, Frankfurt and Copenhagen over the last ten years have all been organised to show Australia’s finest wines to an influential media audience, select trade and individual wine collectors. Much of this work has been funded by Langton’s, underwritten by supporting winemakers and on occasions organised by Wine Australia – the marketing and promotional arm of the Australian Wine and Brandy Corporation. Many of the events have been organised with our international partner Christie’s.

In August 2008, I hosted a tasting of Exceptional Wines in Hong Kong with an additional offering of “unclassified” landmark wines of note including Petaluma Croser Zero Dosage 1998 – in my opinion one of the finest sparkling wines ever produced in Australia, 2007 Yalumba The Virgilius Viognier, 2005 Stefano Lubiana Sasso Pinot Noir and the very rare 1888 Seppeltsfield 100 Year Old Tawny Port etc. The event – held for wine media – was partially funded and organised by Wine Australia to help promote its Landmark strategy in these parts. It was a bolt-on event to take advantage of an invitation by the Hong Kong Government for me to speak at the Hong Kong International Wine Trade Fair about wine investment.

Apparently there were “a few ruffled feathers” among a number of unnamed Australian wine exhibitors, who believed that their interests were not being looked after. These naysayers are either self interested or poorly informed. Surely every fine wine producer stands to benefit from the success and halo effect of Australia’s great wines?

Furthermore this event was just one small step on a long journey. There are many voices, many great vintages and many stories to be told. While moving in the right direction, there is still a considerable amount of work to do. Australia evokes a sense of wonder among Europeans and Australians are generally well liked. Many Europeans have visited Australia during their gap year bringing a greater level of interest in ultra-fine Australian wine.

Wine Australia’s Landmark strategy is critical to the future of fine Australian Wine. It is hopefully a longstanding project that can capture the imagination of influential critics, garner support from the international wine trade and seep into the conscious of the fine wine buyer. Success will bring economic prosperity and underpin the long term viability of the Australian Wine Industry and its export markets. To achieve this goal we must believe in ourselves and positively articulate Australia’s remarkable fine wine narrative.

Langton’s Classification – just part of this movement – is not a personal agenda and has never set out to offend. However it is a meaningful barometer of the Australian Fine wine scene. It is not skewed by the politics of money, the pressure of large corporate agendas or favouritism of any kind. Any wine can be classified as long as it fits into the rules and has a secondary wine market track record.

The Australian wine industry is making the very best wines in its long and interesting history. Increasingly the market is divided between commercial and fine wine. The standards and expectations are poignantly different. Langton’s Classification has emerged as an aspirational goal for many smaller wine producers and an important feature of the ultra-fine Australian wines scene. Developed almost twenty years ago it has become very much a part of the ultra fine Australian wine landscape.

Behind Langton’s Classification, lies hours of research, analysis and writing. The work is used extensively as reference material by the media, wine trade and collectors across the world. It is has been translated into many languages. Further it has often been reworked, unattributed or plagiarised in just as many tongues. It continues to agitate and stimulate debate. As a Langton’s member and buyer you play a big-part in the evolution of Langton’s Classification! Your bids and purchases build a picture of the ultra-fine wine scene. Langton’s forthcoming Classification auction (entries still invited) highlights the current top performing wines on the secondary wine market. Your involvement both as sellers and buyers will continue to shape the ultra-fine Australian wine scene. As we move towards Classification V in 2010, your opinions and participation are greatly appreciated.

Andrew Caillard MW

Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine IV (published in 2005)

Exceptional
PENFOLDS Bin 95 Grange Shiraz, South Australia
BASS PHILLIP Reserve Pinot Noir, South Gippsland Victoria
CULLEN Diana Madeline Cabernet-Merlot, Margaret River Western Australia
GIACONDA Chardonnay, Beechworth Victoria
HENSCHKE Hill of Grace Shiraz, Eden Valley South Australia
LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River Western Australia
MOSS WOOD Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River Western Australia
MOUNT MARY Quintet Cabernet Blend, Yarra Valley Victoria
PENFOLDS Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon, South Australia
ROCKFORD Basket Press Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
WENDOUREE Shiraz, Clare Valley South Australia

Outstanding
BAROSSA VALLEY ESTATE E & E Black Pepper Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
BASS PHILLIP Premium Pinot Noir, South Gippsland Victoria
BEST'S Thomson Family Great Western Shiraz, Grampians Victoria
BROKENWOOD Graveyard Vineyard Shiraz, Hunter Valley New South Wales
CHRIS RINGLAND Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
CLARENDON HILLS Astralis Syrah, McLaren Vale South Australia
CLONAKILLA Shiraz-Viognier, Canberra District New South Wales
GRANT BURGE Meshach Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
GROSSET Polish Hill Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
HARDYS Eileen Hardy Shiraz, South Australia
HENSCHKE Mount Edelstone Shiraz, Eden Valley South Australia
JASPER HILL Emily's Paddock Shiraz-Cabernet Franc, Heathcote Victoria
JASPER HILL Georgia's Paddock Shiraz, Heathcote Victoria
JIM BARRY The Armagh Shiraz, Clare Valley South Australia
KATNOOK ESTATE Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra South Australia
KAY BROTHERS AMERY VINEYARDS Block 6 Shiraz, McLaren Vale South Australia
MAJELLA The Malleea Cabernet-Shiraz, Coonawarra South Australia
MOUNT MARY Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley Victoria
PARKER COONAWARRA ESTATE Terra Rossa First Growth Cabernet-Merlot, Coonawarra South Australia
PIERRO Chardonnay, Margaret River Western Australia
WENDOUREE Cabernet Sauvignon, Clare Valley South Australia
YALUMBA The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz, Barossa South Australia

Excellent
BANNOCKBURN Serre Pinot Noir, Geelong Victoria
BINDI Original Vineyard Pinot Noir, Macedon Ranges Victoria
CAPE MENTELLE Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River Western Australia
CORIOLE Lloyd Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale South Australia
CRAIGLEE Shiraz, Sunbury Victoria
DALWHINNIE Moonambel Shiraz, Pyrenees Victoria
D’ARENBERG The Dead Arm Shiraz, McLaren Vale South Australia
DE BORTOLI Noble One Botrytis Semillon, Riverina New South Wales
ELDERTON Command Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
FOX CREEK Reserve Shiraz, McLaren Vale South Australia
GIACONDA Pinot Noir, Beechworth Victoria
GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Road Cabernet Sauvignon, Barossa Valley South Australia
GREENOCK CREEK Roennfeldt Road Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
GROSSET Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
HENSCHKE Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon, Eden Valley South Australia
HOWARD PARK Cabernet, Margaret River-Great Southern Western Australia
LAKE’S FOLLY White Label Cabernet Blend, Hunter Valley New South Wales
MCWILLIAM’S Mount Pleasant Lovedale Semillon, Hunter Valley New South Wales
MOUNT LANGI GHIRAN Langi Shiraz, Grampians Victoria
NOON Winery Reserve Shiraz, Langhorne Creek South Australia
PENFOLDS Bin 389 Cabernet-Shiraz, South Australia
PENFOLDS St. Henri Shiraz, South Australia
PETALUMA Coonawarra Cabernet-Merlot, Coonawarra South Australia
PETER LEHMANN Stonewell Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
ST HALLETT Old Block Shiraz, Barossa South Australia
TAHBILK 1860 Vines Shiraz, Nagambie Lakes Victoria
TORBRECK RunRig Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
VASSE FELIX Heytesbury Cabernet Blend, Margaret River-Great Southern Western Australia
VERITAS Rolf Binder Hanisch Shiraz, Barossa Valley South Australia
WENDOUREE Cabernet-Malbec, Clare Valley South Australia
WENDOUREE Shiraz-Malbec, Clare Valley South Australia
WENDOUREE Shiraz-Mataro, Clare Valley South Australia
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra South Australia
YARRA YERING Dry Red Wine No.1 Cabernet, Yarra Valley Victoria

Distinguished
BANNOCKBURN Chardonnay, Geelong Victoria
BANNOCKBURN Pinot Noir, Geelong Victoria
BASS PHILLIP Estate Pinot Noir, South Gippsland Victoria
BEST'S Bin No.O Great Western Shiraz, Grampians Victoria
BOWEN ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra South Australia
CHARLES MELTON Nine Popes Shiraz-Grenache-Mourvedre, Barossa Valley South Australia
CRAWFORD RIVER WINES Riesling, Henty Victoria
DOMAINE A Cabernet Sauvignon, Coal River Valley Tasmania
HOUGHTON Jack Mann Frankland River Cabernet Blend, Great Southern Western Australia
KATNOOK ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra South Australia
LEASINGHAM Classic Clare Shiraz, Clare Valley South Australia
LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River Western Australia
LINDEMANS Limestone Ridge Vineyard Shiraz-Cabernet, Coonawarra South Australia
MAJELLA Cabernet, Coonawarra South Australia
MITCHELTON Print Shiraz, Nagambie Lakes Victoria
MOUNT MARY Chardonnay, Yarra Valley Victoria
ORLANDO Lawson's Shiraz, Padthaway South Australia
ORLANDO St. Hugo Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra South Australia
PENFOLDS Magill Estate Shiraz, Adelaide South Australia
PETALUMA Piccadilly Valley Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills South Australia
PETALUMA Hanlin Hill Riesling, Clare Valley South Australia
PLANTAGENET Mount Barker Shiraz, Great Southern Western Australia
REDBANK WINERY Sally's Paddock Cabernet-Shiraz, Pyrenees Victoria
SEPPELT Great Western Vineyards Show Sparkling Shiraz, Grampians Victoria
SEPPELT St Peters Great Western Vineyards Shiraz, Grampians Victoria
TIM ADAMS The Aberfeldy Shiraz, Clare Valley South Australia
TYRRELL’S Vat 47 Chardonnay, Hunter Valley New South Wales
TYRRELL’S Vat 1 Semillon, Hunter Valley New South Wales
VASSE FELIX Cabernet Sauvignon, Margaret River Western Australia
WOLF BLASS Black Label Cabernet-Shiraz, South Australia
WYNNS COONAWARRA ESTATE Cabernet Sauvignon, Coonawarra South Australia
YARRA YARRA VINEYARD The Yarra Yarra Cabernet Sauvignon, Yarra Valley Victoria
YARRA YERING Dry Red Wine No.2 Shiraz, Yarra Valley Victoria
YERINGBERG Cabernet Blend, Yarra Valley Victoria


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