This sits in the ‘classic range’ but is called ‘Exception’ because ‘this is where Grande Champagne really soars’. Distilled in the 1920s and contains some colombard and folle blanche. ‘This is pretty much what I consider my grandfather’s Cognac, 1920s distilled but with a portion from a 1905 demi-john. For me this is a bit like a book, every time you go back to it it changes, something very special; the rancio is quite strong, but very different from the 1953; very special for us, and very rare to have it tasted, if at all. Very rare bottle, but this is our first visit to Australia so I really wanted to show it’ so sayeth Melanie Tesseron.

Bright golden with orange hue. Amazing aromatics; amazing. Incredible to inhale, no higher alcohol burn to turn a head away, but rich, sweet-tinged, spicy and fruity, even. There’s the warmth of charred oak, wet logs, sandalwood and dark chocolate too. Feels so very smooth, lathed, slippery and yet insanely deep – triggers of fine woods, fresh honey, light rancio and a kind of liquid-mineral vein, firing in volleys within the contained frame of the Cognac. And while the texture remains supple, there’s a long, slow burn of campfire-like embers to close; it glows with a definitive sweetness, and then ebbs away with freshening floral, toffee notes and an almost briny tang. Wow. Wow.

The Wine Front (May 2012)