Dr Loosen Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling-Kabinett, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer

Ernst Loosen's Wehlener Sonnenuhr is among the Mosel's most celebrated single-vineyard sites — a blue slate amphitheatre above the river that produces Riesling of extraordinary delicacy and precision. The Kabinett, with its featherlight alcohol and knife-edged balance of sweetness and acidity, is among the world's most misunderstood wine styles: not dessert wine, not dry wine, but something entirely and uniquely itself. Loosen's version is the benchmark. It will outlive most red wines in your cellar.