The last two were 2009 and 2013, the gap a foible of previous owners not taking as much interest in sparkling vintage wines. “We’re back!”, says Ed Carr, but really, Arras has gone nowhere but up and up. This wine is 67% chardonnay and 33% pinot noir, and the intent is for it to be chardonnay dominant, but the uncanny knack for around two thirds chard, one third pinot noir is notable to winemaker Ed Carr. Best of chardonnay, best of pinot noir, ‘most complete wines’, quips Ed Carr. Chardonnay richness and savouriness, pinot noir weight and fruit – that’s the idea. Around 10% new oak used in the mix. Seven years on lees.

It’s a heady perfume, rich and spicy, loaded with dried and fresh stone fruits, some buttery toast and brioche character to sniff on. A prominent thread of briny acidity weaves through the similar fruit characters of dried and fresh stone fruit with layered in butter brioche (toasted?!) and some gentle ginger spice complexity. A bit of early development, fino sherry notes here too. Delicious wine. A plushness, a freshness, a complexity and loads of persistent lip-smacking flavour and fizz. Complete, well, just about!

96 points, Mike Bennie, The Wine Front.