The 2012 Champagne Louis Salmon Blanc De Blancs is entirely from Côte de Blancs Grand Cru villages and saw 25% oak vinification, with most of the malo blocked to retain freshness. Initially, it opens to citrus-driven aromas of lime, but as it opens in the glass, it deepens to reveal notes of white peach, fresh bread, and a touch of toasted spice, with its portion of oak just highlighting the edges of the wine. The palate offers intensity without austerity, with a good, profound, layered feel, and it has a pillowy and elegant mousse, a coating texture of citrus oil, and a long finish. It’s already hard to resist but will improve with time. It’s a wonderful wine for Billecart-Salmon in this vintage. Bravo. Drink 2026-2046. It saw 3.9 grams per liter dosage and 4.4 grams in the final wine.

www.jebdunnuck.com

Incredible aromas of brioche, bread dough and pie crust with superb, electrifying fruit, from peaches to fresh apples. It’s driven, mouthwatering and with fantastic structure, yet it’s so balanced and creamy. Very fine and silky bubbles. It’s better and better as it warms slightly in the glass. 3.9g/L dosage. Drink or hold.

www.jamessuckling.com

2012’s already expressive aromatics are reframed in explosive charry, flinty energy and an extra fluid freshness on the palate, supercharging the ripe lemon syrup, apricot and sweet spice flavours. Nimble and transparent with a precise palate unmarked by dosage or some of the rather heavier, more concentrated fruit that the year can bring. Tasted from magnum: a limited number have been released alongside the 2012 main 75cl release. Aged under cork during its second fermentation.

Tom Hewson, www.decanter.com