Then it was time for the good James to enjoy one of the most magnificent champagnes in the 25th Bond film. An exclusive "Limited Edition" of the most delicious performance imaginable, where one in the sober text on the elegant bottle can discern the film titles in which Bond indulged in the Aÿ based house's unique elixir of life. The decision, in the usually somewhat thin vintage of 2011, to use Pinot Noir exclusively from the home village of Aÿ with its mighty fruit is nothing short of brilliant. As you might know, Bollinger's ungrafted rarity Vieilles Vignes Françaises comes from Aÿ. I have long argued that the greatness of the wine has less to do with the vines being pre-phylloxera than that they come from Aÿ's best locations aged in Bollinger's old oak barrels. This Bond champagne shows that I was right since the similarities are striking. Perhaps both we and James should wait about ten years until the wine has reached its peak and completely integrated its enormous fruit with the notes from the barrels, but the wine is already magnificent with its deep ripe aroma of Gravenstein apples backed by fresh wooden notes from a newly installed Finnish sauna decorated with fresh birch twigs. Very typical of the Producer and powerful, perhaps more as an energizing solo piece for cello than as a harmonious symphony with its direct and uncompromising power.

95 points, Richard Juhlin.