The fourth edition of Bollinger's limited PN series is the most expressive yet, with a hugely satisfying, expansive character. Dried pear, stewed Bramley apple and nectarine melt into the depths of reserve wine complexity, with chestnut honey and perfectly pitched savoury interest. It's surprisingly silky, the texture surprisingly weightless, the shape rounded and cushioned rather than strict or driving. A highly rewarding Champagne, ready to drink but with interesting potential to evolve over the next five years. 100% Pinot Noir, predominantly from Aÿ, with support from the villages of Tauxières and Verzenay. Based on the 2018 vintage, with 50% reserve wines back to 2009.

93 points, Tom Hewson, Decanter (July 2023)

Mouthwatering and finely meshed, with density to the satiny texture, this marries bright acidity with flavors of ripe white cherry, biscuit, pickled ginger and candied grapefruit peel. Opens slowly on the palate, revealing layers of fragrant spices, mineral and dried flowers on the finish. Disgorged January 2023. Best from 2025 through 2033.

93 points, Alison Napjus, Wine Spectator (2023)

Finally, it was time for Aÿ to take center stage in Bollinger's new Pinot Noir series. It wasn't until the fourth edition that one got home to the house's most powerful stronghold and DNA. In comparison to the three previous editions, we are dealing with a tasting winner from the start. The oak notes and the home village's smoky features hit me like a wall of sauna, grilled meat, hazelnuts and tar. The color is deeper than in previous editions and the power stronger than in the first three PN. 47% of the wine comes from the home village in casks both from 2018 and in the reserve wine on magnums from 2009. In between these mighty parts we have steel tank-aged Tauxières, Avenay and Verzenay from the lighter and more mineral-influenced vintages of 2016 and 2017. This particular side takes the biggest place in the middle register and mid-palate of the wine. In aroma and aftertaste, Aÿ pushes forward with its broad muscular shoulders and leaves no one untouched. A bargain with peak 2030–2035

97 points

Light straw, almost rose-gold colour indicating black grapes, and the bouquet has a lot of complexity from oak and aldehydes, nougat, coconut and flor-sherry nuances, while it's full-bodied and rich on the tongue, with a very dry balance and mouth-filling flavour and textural grip. Lots of almond, biscuit and spice aromas. A powerhouse of a wine, the strength of pinot noir comes rocketing through. It takes blanc de noirs style to an extreme, and I love it. (100% pinot noir from Aÿ. Base year 2018, oldest reserve wine 2009. Dosage 6 grams/litre)

96 points, The Real Review (September 2023)