An amazing bright colour for starters, all dark purple shot with black and red. The delight continues across a fuller-bodied palate that's full of dark plums, cloves, turmeric and Sichuan pepper – a bit of excitement here. The tannins are shapely, slightly grainy and everything comes to play a harmonious chord.

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There are times when one feels that the proverbial red-haired stepchild gets more attention than Margaret River Shiraz, when compared to its more illustrious sibling, Cabernet Sauvignon. It isn’t fair, but as a former PM said, life is not meant to be fair. To be able to offer an array of wines like the CM collection of Shiraz would thrill most wineries. Here, they play a supporting role at best. From vines planted 16 to 32 years ago, the wine has 6% Grenache and intriguingly, includes a dollop – 3% – from the 2021 vintage. Maturation is in oak for fifteen months, 22% new. A deep garnet hue, the nose is immediately alluring, with plums, dry herbs, coffee grinds, spices, florals, beef stock and cassis. A supple texture, well-structured with finesse and tension, there is fine acidity and excellent length. Enjoy over the better part of the next decade.

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