(IGT Toscana; 85% Sangioveto – a special clone of Sangiovese with thinner skins; 15% Malvasia Nera – which softens the big tannins of the Sangiovese; aged in oak, 50% new, 50% first and second use for 24-30 months; 14% alcohol; the bird adorning this year’s label is a stonechat – it changes each year and like the wine is sourced from the vineyard itself). Another brilliant I Sodi di San Niccolo following on from the sublime 2021 despite the rather more challenging vintage conditions (essentially, extremely hot and extremely dry). This is solar and sunny in temperament but with a lovely natural freshness to the fruit that holds everything in balance. Bracken, forest floor, rosemary and a hint of lavender accompany the copious, predominantly red, berry fruits – with a little tomato stalk and leaf too. This is dense, compact and quite intense in the mouth, with an intriguing blend of oak smoke and curry spices beautifully intermingling with the rich, bright red berry fruits. The tannins are very refined and their gentle grip and engagement, particularly, on the finish, serves to keep this fresh all the way to a distant horizon. The balance is very impressive.

Colin Hay, The Drinks Business