Chardonnay in the well-drained chalk soils of the Côte des Blancs performed so well in torrid 2017 that Charles Heidsieck produced only the fifth vintage of Blanc des Millénaires in 30 years, hailing predominantly from the grand cru village of Le Mesnil-sur-Oger alongside surrounding grand and premier cru Chardonnay. With a moderate yield, some early season heat and a good retention of acidity, the 2017 is both aromatically inviting and reassuringly ageworthy. With orange citrus, jasmine, sweet toasted almond and richer pear tart flavours building, this ultra fine blanc de blancs is cut with dash of smoky, charry energy and citrus syrup length, already expressive yet bound to ramp up the nutty, toasty headiness with further time. This will prove itself one of the wines of the vintage.