PENFOLDS RWT Shiraz, Barossa Valley 2022

One suspects that future generations of winelovers will endlessly debate the glories, and their preferences, of the 2021 and 2022 vintages. Two truly superb years. Too early to make a definitive call as to whether the 2021 or the 2022 vintage of RWT is the superior wine, but what we can say with some degree of conviction is that these two vintages are surely the best pair of wines ever released under this label. Fourteen months maturation in French oak hogsheads, 67% new, Penfolds describe the colour of this wine as Barossa Noir. There is elegance here, impressively so, especially for Barossa Shiraz. A wine of grace. The vestiges of quality oak are concluding integration and the wine has aromas of coffee beans, vanilla, plums, licorice, blackcurrants and cassis. The structure is impressive and even hints at a touch of formality and austerity. This vintage relies a little more on black fruits than we usually see with RWT. Time in the glass sees the wine offer bay leaves, axle grease and spices. There is also juicy acidity, sleek tannins and superb length, contributing to a brilliant RWT, which has at least twenty years ahead of it. 

PENFOLDS Bin 144 Yattarna Chardonnay, Tumbarumba, Adelaide Hills, Tasmania 2019

Erin Larkin: Lovely crème brûlée and lemon meringue notes mark the nose of the 2019 Yattarna Chardonnay, joining hints of white peaches and Anjou pears. A medium to full-bodied effort, it's rich and concentrated but hangs together really well, built around a silky, layered texture, a core of lemony acids and a long, long finish. The final blend includes fruit from Tasmania (57%), Tumburumba (32%) and the Adelaide Hills (11%) and was aged eight months in 55% new French oak, mainly D&J.

LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River 2021

Light straw colour with a reserved lemon/grapefruit aroma, fresh and penetrating, the palate brisk and bright with vibrant acidity and intense grapefruit/lemon flavours that persist the full length of the very long palate. Superb vitality and balance. It promises to reward cellaring too. Tremendously concentrated and compact, with extreme drive and massive persistence, it positively vibrates with energy. Very cellarworthy, too. 

This 2018 seems like something of a return to form for Rockford BP, at least for my tastes, and maybe a little more like the wines from days of yore.

Red and black fruit, a little walnut, some vanilla/cedar oak, and rosy perfume. It falls more to medium-bodied, has freshness, nutty and savoury flavours, but with brightness of fruit. Tannin offers a gentle grip and graininess, and the finish has fragrance and good length. A very good release. Classic Rockford style. Good to see.