Very hard to say that this latest release of the Art Series Chardonnay is as good as anything they have done before, as it simply sounds as though one is repeating oneself every year. Nevertheless, in the months since I first saw this wine, it seems to have done the near impossible and stepped up to an even higher standard. This is an iconic Chardonnay and justifiably recognised as such around the world. What is not quite so apparent is why on earth people pay many times the price for White Burgundies which are often nowhere near this quality when this is available. That is a question above my pay grade. Lemon-green in colour, there is a most evocative nose, beautifully fragrant. The balance is impeccable throughout. Focused and lingering, this is a wine of freshness and elegance, yet extensive complexity is already evident. The nose gives us notes of white jasmine, oatmeal, cashews, ginger, peaches, mandarin, citrus and lemon curd. There is incredible length here and wonderful generosity. Simply an exquisite wine. Track record suggests that this wine will easily enjoy twenty to thirty years in a good cellar. Drink 2028–2040.

LEEUWIN ESTATE Art Series Chardonnay, Margaret River

When arguments rage, you can guarantee when the subject is Australia’s greatest chardonnays that this wine will always be in the mix. It’s another exceptional wine from a vintage that really worked well. As always, 100% of the juice was barrel fermented in new French barriques, with regular stirring to introduce complexity and texture. It’s a powerful statement of chardonnay as it always is, with aromas of quince and lime, cut pear, with a little vanilla pod and brioche. So it’s layered and complex. The palate is a powerhouse with awesome concentration and intensity, but then there’s a minerally lime juice edge that leaves the mouth with a lip-smacking acidity.