The Henk Vineyard, Aqueduct Block was planted in the red volcanic soils of Woori Yallock in 2008 using the Dijon clone 95.

This an elegant, complex, textured release of extreme length. It has cellar-me written all over it, though harmony already is a strong point. It tastes of grilled peach, apples, citrus, honey and cream, with subtle herb, lemonade and mineral notes infused throughout. Intensity is not an issue but the elegance of this wine is what really struck me. It’s a fabulous chardonnay in anyone’s language.

The 2022 season was warm and low-yielding, particularly for Chardonnay, and many of the wines produced in the region this season can be typified by their nuttiness and a distinct chamomile tea/white flower character. Here, the 2022 Art Series Chardonnay is showing both of those characters, neatly wedged into the authoritative profile of Leeuwin Art Series Chardonnay. Today, for perhaps the first time ever in seeing these wines on release, I note that the oak is a key player in the drinking experience—as ever, seamlessly matched to the fruit and an important part of the wine's style and evident here today. There are toasted nuts, yellow fruits, exotic spices and an open fan of acidity/phenolics through the finish. This 2022 will prove to be a powerful and statuesque player in the wider footprint of Art Series Chardonnays. It's one to collect, but for drinking in the short/immediate term, decanting is recommended.

Erin Larkin

Another exceptional release for this famed Australian chardonnay. Highly strung and tightly wound with mineral-edged aromas of lemon peel, crushed stones and sea spray as well as grapefruit, struck match and white orchard fruit. The palate is still reserved and quiet—remarkable, considering the 11 months in barrel with biweekly lees-stirring. A wine that always needs time but consistently presents as flashy yet vertical. Excellent. Drink or hold but give it some air beforehand. Screw cap