Jeni Port: Meshach looms large in the glass. It’s the Barossa Valley Shiraz’s signature as its creator, Grant Burge, intended. From vines 60+ years old, it holds court both colour-wise – deep, dark with twinkling red hues – and with a powerful presence that belies its age. Big perfume of cigar box, chocolate, spice, plum pudding, black fruits, earth and leather. It’s generous and complex and, yes, carries the bold, warm-hearted Barossa shiraz stamp. It’s packed with flavour that lingers long. Meshach lives up to many drinkers’ expectations of what a traditional Barossa Shiraz should be, and that includes an ability to age. Firm tannins are the not so quiet force behind this wine with the clear intention of providing the framework for that extended ageing. It’s still but a pup and you can’t say that about too many nine-year-old Australian Shiraz.