Langton’s Selections
Nicholson River Reserve Chardonnay
Nicholson River Winery, which began as a hobby by Ken and Juliet Eckersley in 1978, is located in the emerging wine region of East Gippsland about three and a half hour’s drive east of Melbourne.
Ken Eckersley began his career in science but switched his vocation to social work. Along the way he travelled Europe and Israel for four years and picked up an interest in winemaking. He has done a few ‘quickie courses’ in Bordeaux and Burgundy. Scientific inquisitiveness, perception, enthusiasm and a ‘sense of place’ brought about Nicholson River Winery.
The Eckersleys quickly realised that their vineyard, trellised on a Scott Henry system, offered something unique. The combination of gravelly loam soils and limestone clays, a mild maritime climate, appropriate grape varieties and personal commitment to quality has eventuated in the micro production of 12 wines (including three Chardonnays and three Pinot Noirs) usually between 50 and 300 cases.
Vintage normally takes place from mid-March to mid-April. The Nicholson River Reserve Chardonnay (150-220 cases) has an oscillating presence on the secondary market. This wine is matured in 40% new French oak for approximately 12 months before bottling. Eckersley says, “I like to make the wine as complex and multi-layered as possible using various techniques including malo-lactic fermentation. Our wine style has developed over the years. Learning science helped me appreciate the importance of fundamentals but also the need for an open mind.”
The Nicholson River Reserve Chardonnay is a highly individual style, richly flavoured with plenty of creamy complexity. Apparently East Gippsland Chardonnay has the longest ripening period in the world (160-180 days) for a dry style wine. Nicholson River Pinot Noir (approximately 100 cases) is only made in good vintages.
Andrew Caillard MW, Langton's