When siphoning amidst the pantheon of the country's greatest grenache it is important to take time to let wines unwind. And so it is that I write on the 2nd day after opening. Was clunky. Now, a swan! From the cherished Smart Family vineyard. Cherry amaro, bergamot, thyme, lavender and a whiff of mint, rather than (mercifully) eucalyptus. Some malty oak could be shifted. Sweeter than the ‘19, with a skein of freshness and bunchy (20%) tannins tucking in the exuberance. Expansive. The broader of the siblings. Long and juicy. Delicious.

95 points, Ned Goodwin MW, winecompanion.com.au

Full bottle 1,598 g. Suitable for vegans. Bottle 236 of 1,474. A single block of 100-year-old, dry-farmed, bush-vine Grenache vines planted high in the Clarendon subregion, on a family-run estate. Hand-picked fruit, 20% whole bunch into the base of a 2-ton open fermenter. Spontaneous fermentation, gently hand-plunged twice a day during active fermentation. Pressed off to 300-litre hogsheads, 25% were new, and aged for 12 months.

Outrageously camp, this wine is all heady peony perfume, smudged kohl, glittering curves, big mascara, owning every inch of the stage. Yet there is an exquisite vulnerability. Ruby-gem translucent. Sun rising blood red through a dark-orange smudge of regret. Last night's stubbed-out cigarettes. Grass stains and the cool smell of earth and wild mint smudged on your cheek. Big, blousy, deep-pink petals bruised flat to the ground by the pre-dawn rain. A curved palm of a cold hand. Strawberries offered in a jam doughnut with a coffee in a paper cup. You'd turn away if it didn't taste so damn good. So you light that cigarette; take a sip of that black, black coffee; fill your hand with those peony petals, and lick the jam from the corner of someone's mouth. (TC)

17.5/20 points, Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com

Brilliant ruby. Intensely perfumed dark berry, kirsch and floral aromas and a subtle licorice quality. Deep and velvety in texture, offering expansive black raspberry and candied cherry flavors that are complemented by suggestions of mocha, clove and allspice. Finishes sweet and impressively long, with polished tannins building slowly.

94 points, Josh Raynolds, Vinous.