Vifneti Boveri Giacomo Munta le Ruma Derthona Timorasso, Colli Tortonesi

From a steep, limestone-rich site once abandoned and now reclaimed by Giacomo Boveri, Munta l’Ruma (“climb the hill” in local dialect) is a pure expression of Timorasso and the Derthona appellation. Boveri has championed the variety since the 1990s, working with old vines and organic farming in the Colli of Tortona. This parcel sits at 400 metres, with full southern exposure and excellent drainage, which is ideal for ripening while retaining acidity.

Fermentation occurs in stainless steel with native yeasts, followed by ageing on lees for approximately 10 months, without the use of oak. The result is layered and textural but driven by freshness. On the nose, it shows citrus peel, stone fruits and wild herbs. The palate is dry, structured and mineral, with an almost saline line that runs through to a clean, savoury finish.

A wine with both grip and clarity, it ages well and has built a reputation among collectors of serious northern Italian whites.